Trad climbing sling vs runner reddit.
Trad climbing sling vs runner reddit Even if you just get some ultralight "sport" draws". 5”) through purple (2”) Tricams appear most often on trad racks because they are light, easiest to clean, and the most versatile of the full set. Apr 5, 2023 · You can use your sport climbing quickdraws, but most trad climbers will have a separate trad rack of draws made up of single-length and double-length slings with two carabiners. Now I have 8 extendable. All-road, crossover, gravel, monster-cross, road-plus, supple tires, steel frames, vintage bikes, hybrids, commuting, bike touring, bikepacking, fatbiking, single-speeds, fixies, Frankenbikes with ragbag parts and specs, etc. Here is a nice article why. half the strength and weight of a normal sling. 17oz, depending on which When I started trad climbing I simply bought 60cm dyneema sling and converted my sport quickdraw into extendable. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. I do 10 of these, and then some longer slings on my harness. It’s actually sort of the opposite. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. Apr 25, 2012 · On slabs, the gear swings forward and gets in the way; on steeps, the gear sling swings back and feels like it is pulling you off. I would wear this one for multi pitches. Passive Trad Climbing Protection Some climbers take their gear slings climbing, Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner: 24″ Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 5 votes and 17 comments I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). The dual axle design is largely obsolete, but it's still a proven concept that does the job. Dyneema. Apr 10, 2020 · I do like having 12cm though as I prefer them for sport climbing and don't have two sets of draws. Sometimes I'll just chuck a quick piece on/in, like a sling on the one good horn and keep moving. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. My background in placing gear is 30% alpine, 65% mixed sport climbing (you have bolts and pegs but using gear is advisable) and 5% pure trad. I'm sorry, but I just can't buy that. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. If you are going to be doing a few routes that are non-linear, throw in a few trad so you can extend them to reduce rope drag (but take longer falls!). Sep 4, 2017 · If you end up heading to sport climbing crag, you still have the dogbones to swap out. 5L home Jan 29, 2022 · Like so much other gear, slings are a price, weight, durability tradeoff; the skinny stuff doesn't last as long as the nylon. For extendable draws id recommend a neutral color for the 'gear end' and a the colored side for rope. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. Aug 8, 2022 · Now, connect the two nuts with a sling: Clip a sling to one nut with a carabiner, and then thread the end of the sling through a biner clipped to the other nut, back up through the two strands of webbing, and back through the carabiner on the second nut. Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. Most situations it’s just a catch, don’t overthink it. This allows me to have a sling I can use as a prusik without issue but can also function as a spare sling or an extra quickdraw. You can also loop them into alpine draws if you prefer. It requires more rope than a girth hitch, but can be done with a climbing rope which is a monolithic anchor (i. The sling works as well as a piece of 6mm cord but is also a full strength (22KN) sling which I carry as an alpine quickdraw. And I didn't know a lot. I have a question about different carabiner types (wiregate, regular snap gates and the linked snap gate on the rope end of a sport quickdraw). A sling may be utilized as an elongated quickdraw to allow your rope to operate straighter and reduce friction on drifting paths, or it may be utilized to prepare an anchor. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ If you don't have a belay device with a 'guide mode' you can belay from the top using a redirect. Just anything to extend helps. are all fair game here. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. Adjama Is my go to as well. No pure trad pitches outside the course (little beginner-suitable rock for that around here) but maybe a few dozen pitches of mixed trad (runout pitons and bolted/natural features belays mostly) and passages of alpine I protected on gear. May 18, 2021 · To make matters more complicated, slings fill many more roles than one on a typical trad climb. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. Need to sling a tree or horn? Grab a runner. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. No. If it was small diameter (1/4" Goldline) it was usually doubled. Hi Climbit! I'm wondering if we're able to create our own quickdraws by getting two wiregates (e. Bowline can be done with either an open loop (bowline on a bight) or a standing end. Apr 11, 2023 · looks like an even better version of the rabbit runner! Not really. 39 votes, 34 comments. Totems: smallest 4 sizes. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. I was taking a look at my rack the other day and realized that a few of my slings that I usually keep over my shoulder had somehow became trad draws (tripled runners). you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. honestly i think you can find shitty personalities in every kind of climbing--sure you've got trad dads who won't climb harder than 5. Nylon runners are multi-purposed and can be used for both sport and trad climbing. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. Think you'd be grand with 18cm draws and alpine draws for the majority of all trad climbing. 5-3 C4 cam size. I've been fortunate enough to know the couple of trad routes that I've done that I can use sports for the first 1/2 pitch, then I'll need some super long one, then medium sized (blue) slings. Yeah, this is probably the best way. 60cm runners are pretty standard for Trad. Depending what you climb, 3 light sport draws, 3 extendable, and 3 1-'biner+slings over the shoulder is usually a good-enough start. The document has moved here. Mar 1, 2021 · On steep stuff the sling just puts the weight too high on my body. if you go trad climbing nearly every weekend this summer you can def be solid at 5. Pick just the extension you need and no more. 9 or so. g. The resultant anchor point is non-redundant. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. This is an adventure-biking sub dedicated to the vast world that exists between ultralight road racing and technical singletrack. For trad climbing many places consider a “standard rack” something like cams bd sizes 0. I have just in the past year started dedicated training in an attempt to breakthrough a v6-7, 5. Then, you're covered against not only a carabiner unclipping, but also the much more likely failure of trad protection popping. 4-4 and a single rack of friends . Of course, you wouldn't knot Dyneema webbing. Basically, once the ends are clipped together it’s identical to a normal sling. 3 z4s. The home of Climbing on reddit. Sure if you're climbing tips cracks in sandstone then it could be better, but definitely not if you're placing hand size pieces in granite. As time goes on you can replace them with lighter weight biners. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 4-3 so little grey to big blue (dmm 0-5 maybe). If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' Know all 3, and pick one you are most comfortable with. On double ropes it's more common to use quickdraws, but even then the requirements for the ideal draw are somewhat different. You'd be placing a locker on every single piece of pro when trad climbing. 35oz to 3. If you plan to transition into trad climbing quickly with friends and cost is an issue then the trad draw rack might make sense if your willing to deal with a few fumbling clips. Sometimes I add 2 extra draws or 2 double length slings depending on the route. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. e. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. If doing a bunch of top ropes off this I would do it how you have it. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. It should be a modern shape that sets hard and thus does not rattle loose with rope movement. Quickdraws for trad and ice climbing should have wiregate carabiners and lightweight slings. Think places like lone peak cirque, city of rocks, big and little cottonwood canyons, and some local quartzite and limestone crags. the knot might snag. It would eat up the slings and make them less accessible for other pro if all of the nuts aren't needed, but slings don't weigh anything, so rack a few more. The other thing that makes trad climbing slightly more complicated is varying sling sizes. Replacing it with your own tied sling will weaken the thumb loop in a fall, potentially kinking or breaking the thumb loop. I tend to be the kind of trad leader that puts long-ish draws on everything because rope drag causes me to lose my mind. Dogbones aren't long enough to extend from your placements when trad climbing. Alpine draws are the norm for trad climbing on single ropes. How are slings constructed? Slings can be constructed in two ways: They can either be sewn or seamless. Apr 14, 2021 · A few extra safety carabiners for your anchor are useful as well. On here sits all the extra stuff. A thing about trad-climbing is being able to improvise with what you got, in the most efficient and safe manner. For sport routes, nice and easy, sport draws. The one HUGE exception to my gear sling hatred is for some squeezes and OWs, where it is advantages to have the gear on a sling on the outside-side of your body. To give blanket advice to use the most stretchy rope for all trad climbing is just wrong. BD Neutrinos) and using an open sling between the… Get a handful of alpine draws for trad climbing to supplement your quickdraws, get more when you start climbing mountains. Edited to add: If you can't afford a $5 runner over webbing, you probably can't afford to drive to a crag or climb at all. For context of the climbing I'm doing, I live in northern utah and climb mostly easy multipitch trad (up to 5. The risk of lifting your gear out if you use shorter draws is greater than the risk of cross loading (although there have been accidents caused by that too) For half ropes shorter draws are fine, although thin & floppy is still better than stiff nylon sport draws. Disadvantages: more potential for a tangly mess. Also been collecting a trad rack for a while and I’m about to purchase the final pieces. 10 pitch is stress-free when you understand that it goes at 5. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. I've had a couple Corax harnesses over the past few years and I love 'em. In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. Use the 14-20L summit packs that several companies (Outdoor Research, BD, Petzl etc) sell. 5-3) Nuts x1 Offset Nuts x1 2 Shoulder length slings 1 Double length sling A few longer slings. I prefer rope for swapping leads, and just use slings other times so I don't have to carry a cordelette. In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). 5 trad draws (shoulder length slings + 2 snapgates for each) 2-3 double length slings Quadruple length sling or cordelette + 3-4 locking biners for anchors Hexes, small cams, big cams, offset nuts, extra tricams and all of that can come later when he has a better idea of what he wants. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . Same is true for older style single axle cams. offsets nuts are really nice to have I like to take a 60cm aramid sling for friction hitches. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. I say start with 4 and add some if you need it. Need quick equalization between two pieces? Take that sling and make a sliding X. Americans typically use "alpine draws" - extendable with 60 cm slings - because they mostly trad climb on single ropes and need lots of extension to manage drag, gear lifting out etc. When buying draws, try to go for sets in order to save money. In this article, we'll discuss some best practices for assembling your "rack" — all your nuts, cams, carabiners, 'draws, etc. And your comment "I've just flung a huge sling or two over a massive boulder (1 piece, no redundancy, oh god!) and called it good" made me smile because I do the same. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag Aug 18, 2019 · The double-length sling, also known as “shoulder length,” is far and away the most common length, and makes up the majority of the slings on pretty much every traditional climber's rack we know. Only thing I wish is that it were the ultralights and zeros throughout since fully l Aug 9, 2016 · Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. Me personally, I hang them over the shoulder with 1 biner on each, except for one runner that has a couple extra biners for when I place nuts. It's fine to run out some 5. For things that are closer to vertical, I don’t mind a gear sling. internally redundant) I'm curious how people approach this, in the effort to keep the zigzag down. Belay and personal safety gear. In the summer, even if I'm only belaying, I will wear my runner's vest with a filled large hydration bladder in the back. The load pulls directly on the lobes rather than the stem, this has many advantages. 3 Lockers and a belay plate. Once you hit E3/E4, add a few smaller cams, a few extra nuts in the small sizes (I like to carry nuts 1-5ish doubled because your offsets double the larger sizes). Cheers. I almost never climb with a gear sling, for this reason. A sling, (Typically a dynamic sling such as Beal Dynaclip or a homemade one) 3 Locking carabinners Belay/Rappel device 2 prussick's slings one "Maillon Rapide" to be lowered on a bolt in case I don't send the climb and there's nobody stronger around. Seems to cover nearly all bases. The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. So we tested it. I used to use all trad draws when I climbed at the Gunks. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. If I need to I bring my trad quickdraws or alpine draws (really long or wandering Before Climbing Anchors was released I had picked up used copies of older two part series (1990's climbing anchors + more climbing anchors), as I was getting more serious about climbing and trying to get a better handle on knowing what I didn't know. Seems light on slings/alpine draws to me. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. It doesn't have a nose to snag slings and the gate action is butter, but it only comes in two colors It's a bit heavier than the BD miniwire or Camp nano. I rack my draws on the sling and gear on my harness. 115 votes, 127 comments. C4s are great for pure trad: when I’m pumped while placing gear I really enjoy a thumb loop. 3 :) No extendable sling :( WC Zero Friends: Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. If I were just getting started, I'd consider getting one (or other small integer) of every make/model; your partners who lack inquiring minds will think you're the Frankenstein monster and be unable to dress appropriately to compliment your sling colors. My information is from a guide in wales though, and my own experience in the SW United States (Joshua tree etc) Active Vs. This made me wonder: For a long (multi-pitch) trad climb how many "Trad Draws" are you carrying? How many do you rack over your shoulder? I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. Just belay from the ground. Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. If multipitch, those are high profile pieces that I would want on my rack and not wasted on the anchor. Personally, I think the whole static vs. 5, but don’t do this with a wired nut; the cinching action of the girth-hitch can cut the sling in a fall). Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Jul 5, 2020 · Maybe no long slings. Even though it can be produced a variety of ways, a sling (also called a runner) is usually made by stitching a webbing section to a loop. The C4, Drago Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. Currently I'm organizing my gear for a climb and I intend to bring a short prusik cord for tying the french prusik (… After a couple years trad climbing, here's what I would do if I had the money to build a new rack from scratch. Summit packs are made to sit up high on your back so that you can get to gear on the back of your harness easily. Sep 6, 2013 · The pink (. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. I’m short, so on slabs the gear on the sling tends to end up at my feet. Some prefer to use half ropes when trad climbing because of the drag, but that’s also personal preference. Plus, then you would need to buy two sets of slings (dog bones + slings) if you were serious about trad climbing. However I like the way DMM just decided to focus on the gear rather than the profit margins. These slings are the perfect length to extend a piece of protection so that the rope runs easier with less rope drag. I mentioned early on that I was specifically addressing "trad climbing gear anchors" because I thought that someone would immediately apply what I wrote to a two bolt sport anchor. it helps if you have someone who climbs a bit harder than you so you can second routes at your limit before leading them. Using locking 'biners whenever using long slings just isn't practical. (Like 1/2lb). 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. My take is that the dragons are really great for alpine climbing. If you take big whippers on bolts check the draw for burrs before using on soft material (rope, anchors, cam slings, etc). 10 "tricky" sequence if you're a 5. I've never seen a sling bag while out climbing multi p and it strikes me as a poor choice. ) Posted by u/Sigmund--Fraud - 29 votes and 71 comments Totems are overhyped for free-climbing IMO. I've been trawling the internet for reviews and tests and most I could find were on OutdoorGearLab and UK Climbing Forums from some years ago. Now, I climb in the west and prefer 6 long draws and 6 over the shoulder slings with a single biner each. BD: big cams. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. 11 sport climber. Basically it’s a regular sling/runner, sewn shut in the middle. 7 but go on about how "sport climbing is neither," but you've also got sport climbers who shit on trad climbers for the precise reasons you've outlined and argue the opposite side of the coin that sport climbing They are also light for alpine stuff. Sep 1, 2023 · At times, there was only a difference of a single gram between different slings, and even if you multiplied this difference by 10 (for the number of slings you might carrying on a route), 10g in the best case, or 190g if comparing the lightest to the heaviest (19g x 10 slings), is still only a difference of . Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. Even climbing on Little Cottonwood Granite with weird flares and pin scars, one of my Metolius cams or an offset cam/nut fit the same or better than an equivalent Totem. Experience: climbing and mountaineering for 3 years, took a trad climbing course 2 years ago. just try to get in a lot of mileage. You can easily store this system on your harness. EDIT: Spelling and link 23 votes, 46 comments. What gear to carry, where to carry it and how to rack it are key considerations as you progress in your skills as a lead trad climber. These extendable quickdraws will help manage rope drag on meandering pitches. Trad climbing with quickdraws is not ideal, but it works if you bring a few alpines as well for strategic extensions. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. What kind of cams? Some can be reslung yourself, others are better done professionally. Hello fellow trad climbers. Some of my friends just use the Petzl Ange S for everything. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. Sling Length I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ May 2, 2013 · Stephen Ackley wrote:an autoblock will prove to be much faster once you practice with it+1 Just keep in mind that a prussic is more "grabby" than an autoblock, so confirm that the autoblock you tie with a given diameter cord will lock up nicely on your rope. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. In part that's part of the reason to trad climb below your repoint grade for a while. You seem to have a lot of insight, but to me, the thought of the lovable bums who make and sell gear just for the fun of it and because they love climbing and want to give back to the community is just too r I'm doing a full update on my rack; new cams, slings, and carabiners. I started with 4 which in most cases was enough, I was using extendable only when needed and using my sport draw for when I needed no extension. Make sure to get a few longer draws to help combat rope drag. Most alpine climbing you'd be doing shouldn't take more than a set of cams and a set of nuts unless you're doing big alpine rock routes like those in the Sierras. — on a gear sling or harness gear loops (or a combo) so you'll be able to quickly reach what you need during your climb. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. Works just fine - but now, it's nicer to have a full rack of DMM Alpha sport QD's :) Dogbones can be purchased individually so really there's no real savings in using slings - more hassle, if anything! The only time I use them now is for trad climbing, where a long sling can be doubled over using a clove hitch to extend a piece if needed. Futzing with over the shoulder slings sucks more then carrying an extra 10 carabiners. Second place would be DMM Torque Nuts, although the extending sling is great, I much prefer how the Rockcentric places. As the title suggests, as someone who's looking to start building a rack, I'm curious as to whether or not long time trad climbers replace every single sling in their kit every few years due to age. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. com Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. For most of trad climbing bailing is easier than sport! You just aid through the hard moves. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. set of nuts. Dyneema slings, on the other hand, have a higher load capacity at exactly the same weight, and a smaller diameter – which makes them ideal for adventurous sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and alpine tours. The design of the totem is simply better imo. Ok so I have been climbing for a little over 5 years, spending most of my time sport and trad climbing with small bits of bouldering scattered in here and there. For Multi-pitch. If you don't have to then they can just act as a normal quickdraw. Unless you really fuck something up any stretch in the anchor should be negligible compared to the stretch in the rope (i. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. Weirdly, the Adjama can be more comfortable despite the narrower waist, but the Corax is exceptionally good for ice (can hold 4 ice clippers / caritool) and the double adjust buckles are awesome for using different amounts of clothing. I look for the hex to be slung rather than wired. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. It would also eat up real estate on belt loops, making shoulder slings for gear more necessary. The smaller sizes are used mainly for aid climbing because of their diminutive slings and because they’re difficult to clean while free climbing. I see you've racked your longer slings as draws, Personally I''ve rarely needed that much extension and would prefer to save those for anchors/etc. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. I tend to use a gear sling when trading pitches on multi pitch climbs. If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. Le service sans frais de Google traduit instantanément des mots, des expressions et des pages Web entre le français et plus de 100 autres langues. I. Runners are most often used in traditional climbing (trad climbing) to lengthen anchors, prevent rope from dragging through rock and to keep gear from becoming Typically still over 10kn. But they all have advantages and disadvantages. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. 9). 1-. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. Unless you’re a hard man attempting an overhanging route in a cave (then your name is probably Ondra) soft vs hard catches don’t really apply to trad climbing so much. Trying a 5. I'd recommend just buying 60cm slings and cannibalizing some of your sport rack to make them at first. Mainly because I purchases my sport draws, then built a trad rack with alpine draws. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. Extendable slings are great in this setting. Nov 1, 2024 · Stiff gate action, skinny runner hard to grab when sport climbing: Narrow sling, exposed notch can snag on gear, wide profile: Small carabiners, smallest gate opening, easily twisted sling: Tiny biners are hard to clip, hard to grab onto, wiregate on top a challenge to clean: Bottom Line: The best overall draw for sport specific climbers On a long and winding trad route you're really gonna want to extend almost every piece. Climbing Slings. I’ve got a bunch of short draws for sport climbing but I’m getting into mountaineering and trad climbing, and it seems like wiregates are in use more for this stuff. If you’re going to be climbing trad, you might soon start to look at some easy multi pitches to tackle. 11+ trad, then youre probably better off losing 1/2lb body weight or getting more skill/experience. If multipitch or belaying from above I would use two pieces and a sling just for speed to get my belayer climbing quicker but to each their own on 2 vs 3 pieces. Be the first to comment Nobody's responded to this post yet. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. Moved Permanently. Find really long draws can sometimes twist or lay funny on the rock, which can be frustrating clipping sport climbing. The rope and helmet needs to be outside the pack. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. The totems add confidence in small cracks and pockets. The WCs are basically C4s with extendable slings, but only go up to fist size. . 7 C1 if you get shut down. 2 long ones if needed to keep the rope straight, 2 long ones for the anchor. Same as before More slings Edit: reading again it seems to be general purpose which I think means trad climbing too and not just scrambling. Wild Country Friends hit the sweet spot to me - pretty light, especially if you factor in the extendable sling negating the need for extension a lot of the time (you may not end up carrying less quickdraws but it is nice to be able to hang onto the draws you have for higher on the pitch; they're beautifully made and the wide (compared to Camalots) cam lobes with the anodising machined off the Cams (Black Diamond 0. I tend to forget to drink water (bring 3L to the crag, bring 2. Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. You should also become more c Mar 3, 2023 · In general, we like solid gate carabiners for bolt side and bent gate biners for the lower carabiner on sport climbing draws. A 20l is plenty for sport climbing, multipitch and a lunch. And yes we are scared of falling. There are lots of wandering routes there. British trad takes passive pro better and pretty much everyone uses a single sling instead of a quad. For sport I have 18 Spirit keylock QDs. I owned a set black-green and sold them because I preferred my ULMCs. the only way to get good at trad climbing is to do a shit ton of trad climbing. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. I also have 3 120cm cord slings for emergency Prusiks, for bailing, or if I run out of slings. I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. Photos in some of my old climbing books show Brit climbers using tied cordage for extenders. Protection is always a blend of probability and consequence. 4-4, with . might even be I have separate draws for trad and sport. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Add your thoughts and get the conversation going. Got a single rack of c4s . The discussion over nylon vs. Someone in r/climbergirls suggested wearing a runner's vest for short multis, this is absolutely my favorite thing if I'm not already wearing a backpack. Also leaders will direct belay their partner off the anchor more often. From what I've read they are all great cams but they all have some small differences: BD Z4s: Rigid flex stem :) Good range for > 0. A rabbit runner is a normal sling, cut open. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. WC: Off-fingers to fist size. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Mar 3, 2023 · In general, we like solid gate carabiners for bolt side and bent gate biners for the lower carabiner on sport climbing draws. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. With all the slings on alpine quickdraws and cams (I believe I was seeing Dmm cams had slings permanently stitched together around the cam stems Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. The rope and helmet were outside. BD 18mm nylon My trad RP is actually higher than my sport (13a vs 12d). Max onsight are both 12b. Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions. e I tend to twist rack them on a locker. 1. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. You may end up breaking down an alpine draw to use its components elsewhere, which is why it’s always nice to have a few Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. In terms of rope efficiency, it can be done with fairly short slings. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Trad climbing often involves crack climbing , which is a different style of climbing from face climbing. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. Not a huge deal but if the gear end goes on bolts all the time it will get chewed up, could wear your rope - Nothing a file or sandpaper wont fix. For example current and previous generation BD cams with the thumb loops have a special tripled up sewn sling. The slings for alpines are fairly cheap on their own. 1 short, 13 medium, 4 long. You can share carabiners between your quickdraws and alpine draws and just swap them out depending on if you're trad climbing and sport climbing. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Last week-end, I went trad climbing with a 40l pack. I still carry at least one tied double length runner because it's easy to untie and thread/use for rap tat. 12c-ish plateau. LINK. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. Emotional pro mostly. ita khciyod ckshda gdj pffcn qljp saqotv bmfh nsqvi zqte uzzirfv wdsvs bsxgtyy hjw tyq