Rope soloing 13d/14a R). I came up 6” short and started to fall. 4 to 10. 12a/b), I forgot the beta and hit a dead end. I am thinking about starting to top rope soloing on one of my projects, and I see so many opinions on the best way to do this… Sep 2, 2010 · Rope soloing is highly dangerous and demands a great deal of experience and good judgment and in many ways is more dangerous than free soloing, due to an increased reliance on ‘systems’. Zwei Tage später nahm er sich den Verdon-Klassiker Take it or Leave it (110m, 8a) vor. I know the micro traction is very popular but it has teeth rather then a clamp and could damage the rope in any catches with excess rope out. I use two strands of rope fo I forgot to link to the Petzl article Nov 7, 2022 · Improvised rope ascending system, combine with a friction hitch or micro ascender like a Petzl Tibloc to go up a fixed rope. There's a lot of good info spread across MP forums, but figured i'd consolidate and put together an Instructable for anyone else interested in maki… Mar 22, 2017 · Im Internet sorgt Fabian Buhls Rope Solo Erstbegehung von Ganesha an der Loferer Steinplatte für Furore. Anyone wishing to rope solo should already have extensive knowledge of all the systems and equipment needed, as well as a sound knowledge of themselves Jan 12, 2022 · ALWAYS use a static rope when solo-toproping: Dynamic ropes introduce stretch and hence longer fall potential, introducing greater forces and greater opportunity for device failure. It also allows the use of ropes with a diameter from 9. Having rope soloed a few things, I think that maybe it’s the highest test of a climber, requiring everything you have (physical, emotional, mental as well as skill-wise), and also the most rewarding. At the bottom of the climb, I coil the rope and hang it 3-4 feet off the ground to help weight the rope so it slides through my gri-gri easier. Jun 24, 2021 · Pre-grigri, I used a clove-hitch to rope solo to bad and good effect: it hampered efforts to free climb but held the resulting fall. The ropes are hemp and quite thick,so no need for an ascender (unless you're thinking of rope soloing the harder bits, which would be a bit antisocial imo, considering how crowded Hornli is) Yeah you can store stuff at Zermatt train station. We talk about it, demonstrate it, and e Yann’s course is the only place on the Internet with this kind and depth of infomation. I have accomplished close to 100 pitches with this system, both free and aid climbing. Rope-Solo Klettern ist gefährlich […] Read More › May 19, 2010 · Rope soloing is highly dangerous and demands a great deal of experience and good judgment and in many ways is more dangerous than free soloing, due to an increased reliance on ‘systems’. 13d R) as a rope solo. I actually prefer rope soloing to climbing with a partner in places like Ouray Ice Park - I get a lot more climbing done and do not get cold standing around. May 8, 2023 · Note: Not all solo climbing is free solo. The Cinch design was improved around 2008. Solo bezeichnet. So, the crucial question: how do you continue to lead? An option is lead rope soloing. Die Anwen-dung im Vorstieg ist eine Sonderform, für welche es keine „Lehrmei-nung“ gibt. Sep 30, 2022 · See the lead rope solo facebook group for discussions. Dec 5, 2017 · I'll stick to a mega jul when solo. Climber weight approx 185 lb dad-bod Device in fall-arrest mode, not ascender mode (obviously) Rope is old, semi-retired 11mm dynamic Connection is 3/8" quicklink to belay loop. In my opinion, the main takeaways from these articles are the El Mudo is gaining international recognition, not only for being the only commercially available device/system but also for its design, which is fundamentally intended for Rope Solo Climbing—whether in Top Rope Solo (TRS) or Lead Rope Solo (LRS). In this instruc… Those are a great description of the rope soloing steps assuming you haven't taken a fall on any of them. TR soloing is a great way to get in quick sessions, put in more laps, keeping warm on cold days, or when you're following a pitch and then hauling up a backpack. He wrote as well a book on soloing: Some pants filler photo from Andy and his solo ascent of “Sea of dreams” on ElCapitan. Mar 6, 2019 · Even though the Micro is rated for it, in practice, it doesn't work well. [1] Jun 23, 2018 · Details. Me, Myself & I draws on fifteen years of experience on these solo projects, as well as nearly thirty years of general climbing experience, to bring the most specialised big wall instruction book ever Dec 28, 2012 · Roped solo TR is no big deal using any of the usual setups. We have lots of terms that don't make the most sense, but they have a lot of cultural inertia and changing them would require a massive campaign, which I can only see doing if there was some really significant benefit. Dieses Setup habe ich mir zurechtgemacht, um mit zwei recht dünnen Halbseilen Toprope-Solo klettern zu können. by Michael Powers, IFMGA AAI Senior Guide & Director for Staff Development. Also the creator has a facebook page with videos of the device in use. When lead rope soloing, the rope doesn’t pass through the placed gear like in normal leading. M. 2) I prefer the microtraxion for hauling. Here are four additional tips to keep in mind when considering top rope solo climbing: Avoid edges. However afaik it's made for lead rope solo, so a different use case from yours. It feels much more efficient. Why bother soloing? I only go lead rope soloing a few times a year, but these ascents are continually stand out experiences. Some consider it the purest form of climbing, but it is also extremely dangerous since a single mistake can mean almost certain death. In the same way that red pointing is harder than pink pointing a trad route because of the additional time it takes to place inspect gear, lead rope solo has some additional steps which overall make it Keita Kurakami free rope soloing the Nose ALTERNATIVES. This isn’t true. TRIPLE check everything. Despite the limitations I want to get used to this system and do rope solo leads before investing in a gri-gri/eddy/silent partner etc. Climbing and mountaineering with a rope team lend themselves to a higher degree of safety. It worked OK but very soon (within a dozen pitches) I had severely damaged my rope. Anyone wishing to rope solo should already have an extensive knowledge of all the systems and equipment needed, as well as a sound knowledge of themselves Jun 29, 2022 · For those of us that were not lucky enough to be lead soloing during the era of rope solo items being marketed and silent partners being sold for less than $1500, what is gear and techniques you use? Are we stuck with just clunky knots and/or modified grigris now? Honestly Gri gri with a cache loop made by a micro traxion works so well. I'll break down common devices, and how to use them for different applications. He named the extended route The Votive Light (5. Feb 11, 2002 · It is designed to be used by a belayer who is mobil, thus providing the dynamic's in the system. I'll also continue using an atc when with a partner since that's usually climbing in the alpine at rmnp or doing some multi pitch at lumpy. THE Device for Lead Rope Solo Climbing. (Nope, you won’t learn that on Alpinesavvy, Google is your amigo. While some of their ascenders are recommended for top-rope soloing in the articles, they also mention others that are unsafe to use. This guide is NOT a full description of the activity and its many, many dangers. Other interesting. Yes we can read an article over here or a few words there about rope soloing, but Yann has put it into the relaxed form of videos where you can sit back and let the infomation flow in! Easy days! Here’s how I top-rope solo with a GriGri. As I launched, my foot slipped. It is NOT the same thing as lead rope solo (LRS) or free soloing. Top Rope Solo Pack List. The revo was connected to this part of rope. One of the most popular applications for this device. It involves double the amount of work; all the work that your Learn how to rope solo for self rescue situations, such as reaching an injured leader or setting up a top rope anchor. relatively thick static ropes). Brent Barghahn from Avant Climbing shows us his favorite Lead Rope Solo systems and why he chose the devices he did. Didn't see much use as a pulley short of hauling a wind blown rope out of a tree. Follow topic: Email Notify on site Post Reply. Das Freiklettern kann in verschiedene Begehungsstile unterteilt werden, die im Folgenden kurz erläutert werden: Onsight, Flash, Rotpunkt/Redpoint, Pinkpunkt, Clean/Trad, Toprope, Rope Solo, Free Solo und Deep Water Solo. Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i. Avoid running your rope over sharp Aug 21, 2020 · Rope Solo im Toprope. The common rope soloing activities are called top roping and lead belaying. If you take a fall with a bunch of unnoticed slack in your system, your fall length will be significantly higher than expected. Die ersten beiden Seillängen liefen gut, auch wenn er sich an den Stil der Route und die Steilheit der Wand habe gewöhnen müssen. Top rope soloing (TRS) is the art of climbing a fixed rope, by yourself, rather than climbing with a partner. It teaches you the basics that can then be applied and keep you safer when using more sophisticated methods. I guess they couldn't sell enough of them. Hello and welcome to my first instructable. Apr 1, 2023 · This will also help the rope feed better through the device. So I had backup knots, but can see that it may be the best device for rope solo. Anyone wishing to rope solo should already have extensive knowledge of all the systems and equipment needed, as well as a sound knowledge of themselves Any feedback is appreciated. Just keep the device dry (i. Lead soloing and top rope soloing are both very doable, common, and relatively safe when done by an experienced climber. Jan 15, 2013 · Top rope/seconding rope solo I use a C. Oct 15, 2021 · Top rope solo climbing (or TR solo/TR soloing) is an advanced rock climbing technique that requires a solid background in climbing and plenty of proper guidance to avoid injury. I read like Top roping solo is a very safe and fun way to get a lot of climbing on your own without a partner. I only use one minitrax, but I have modified it so that it can't lock open (this involves just filing away a bit of metal). 0 has been redesigned to offer more breaking power, with any brand of rope, so now there's no creep when you're hanging on the rope. I hope you will find it useful and not overly complicated to use. e. Oct 25, 2023 · Nächstes Rope-Solo: Ein Klassiker von Patrick Edlinger. The best way to adapt to this with a rope solo set up is to incorporate a dynamic system into the anchor. Feb 5, 2025 · Devices specifically developed for rope soloing, like the Silent Parnter, Soloist, etc, are basically unavailable unless you want to buy an old used one off ebay. Toprope: Setup für gesichertes Solo-Klettern - Rope Man 2. The book compiles and clarifies diverse information, blending traditional methods with modern techniques. Sep 4, 2020 · Alex Honnold climbing 3,000 foot up El Cap without a rope in “Free Solo” caught the world’s attention. Like other posters said, GriGri sucks for TR solo especially if you use a fatter rope. May 21, 2024 · We've used this device as an ascender, as a capture pulley in a haul system, as a part of a top-rope soloing system, and for crevasse rescue. As one example, John Bachar and Peter Croft are known soloists but were also the first ever to climb (roped) both El Capitan and Half Dome in a day, in 1986 Jun 10, 2010 · Rope soloing is highly dangerous and demands a great deal of experience and good judgment and in many ways is more dangerous than free soloing, due to an increased reliance on ‘systems’. Jun 5, 2024 · “Maybe I should call it free solo plus. I currently have a Petzl Minitraxion, and am thinking of getting the Wild Country Ropeman2 as the back up, since it's less than half the cost and functions similarly. 8, A3, V) 2013, Mar 5, 2024 · If you cut out the damaged part of the rope and tie the two pieces together, the knot won't go through protection if you climb and belay in the normal manner. no slush on the rope). Since you won’t be having any support from below, you’ll need to understand the harness system in-depth. This time there was not only the yellow rope which was allready tested but also a blue rope that is similar in diameter but has a lowe percentage of sheath. It applies to sport and trad climbing. The smoother the feed = less weight needed on the rope. I fix the rope in the middle an have one device on each strand (m traxion and microcender. Free Soloing is the act of climbing without any rope, harness, or safety equipment. After taking a ground fall attempting to redpoint the route as a rope solo, he decided to follow the crack all the way to the top of the cliff instead of ending at the bolt anchors. Yann’s course is the only place on the Internet with this kind and depth of infomation. Anyone wishing to rope solo should already have an extensive knowledge of all the systems and equipment needed, as well as a sound knowledge of themselves l does not reccomend using their devices for top rope solo but still recognizes people do it anyway and has good information on the safest methods. It’s called the death mod cutout. Apr 12, 2021 · This video provides instruction in how to rope solo. Top rope solo systems rely on progress capture rope grabs, which allow rope to pass easily through one direction and stop rope from going the other. There are several ways to do that. Aug 16, 2021 · I’ve used both dynamic and static ropes fairly extensively over the last 20 years of top rope soloing. Nov 2, 2023 · The term free soloing should also be updated then with the rise of lead rope solo, which is also a form of free soloing. ascender - after leading the pitch, building a top anchor and abseiling back down, the rope solo climber must ascend the rope and clean the route. If I’m coming in from the top or will be leaving the rope for any significant amount of time I will always use a static rope. This form of soloing predominantly shines on single pitch climbing but can be used if there's a fixed line on a multipitch. 13d, 5 pitches [Redpoint in a day with no falls, after rehearsal] - Sedona, AZ. A great place to start is to watch the videos on Yan Camus YouTube channel, as he talks a lot about rope soloing devices and rope soloing tech, and covers a lot of the problems in a way that’s easy to understand (upside downfalls for example). Jun 9, 2015 · I never understood how the two rope system can in to play for top rope soloing. May 2, 2018 · The setup, the process, and tips for toprope soloing (TR solo). In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and IFMGA/AMGA guide Jason Antin are back to provide an accident analysis and give you some quick tips on how to mitigate risk when top-rope soloing. Out of desperation, I jumped for the anchor. A supposed run of a set amount, like several hundred, is rumored to be in the works, if the demand is high enough. Using a stock or modified Grigri for rope soloing is beyond the manufacturers approved use of the device and voids the warranty. Any form of solo climbing is quite advanced a Top Rope Solo Setup for Climbing: I've tried many different Top Rope Solo configurations, but this is by far the best for me right now. Is there a technique for rope-soloing that offers a reasonable margin for safety, or is rope-soloing strictly for suicidal idiots? May 14, 2022 · Unlike “free soloing,” top rope soloing still requires a rope! But rather than climbing with a partner who dynamically belays you from the anchor of the pitch, you climb alone, ascending a fixed top rope with a self-belay device (or two, as you’ll see). 1 of 2 Original Post. Top Rope Soloing (TRS). , Petzl Micro Traxion or Camp Lift), and then climbs up while the PCDs move up the rope. Instead, she sets up a fixed line from a solid anchor above the route, attaches herself to the rope with two PCDs (e. Feb 10, 2011 · Rope soloing is highly dangerous and demands a great deal of experience and good judgment and in many ways is more dangerous than free soloing, due to an increased reliance on ‘systems’. The ropes should be fixed in TR solo for a variety of reasons (rope abrasion being one of them). Sep 17, 2012 · When I first started top rope soloing the first device I used was a Petzel mini-traxion (very similar to your micro-traxion). You should not rope solo unless you are experienced in lead climbing, top rope soloing, and self-rescue techniques. Keys to making the system work: If you are projecting a route/boulder and just looking to just dial in your beta and sequences, go with a Grigri and a backup knot. Learning to rope solo using clove hitches is an essential skill to learn if considering a big wall. sh/wideboyz08211All your questions you asked me about rope s When I rope solo I set up a single fixed line, usually with an equalizing figure 8 through biners at the anchors. Search for "modified Gri Gri solo" and you'll find pages upon pages, both on MP and elsewhere. This utilitarian device even works reasonably well as an emergency ascender, especially when clipped directly to the belay loop in a 2:1 setup (when set up with an active assisted-braking belay device Jan 24, 2013 · That it will take a Fall factor 2 without chopping the rope didn't much ease my mind as it was new, and plenty of people have been dropped with partners using the "Failsafe" Gri gri and Cinchs. Rope soloing is an essential self-rescue skill for any big wall. In unserem Beitrag zeigen wir dir vorerst nur die Technik, wie ihr euch beim Toprope-Klettern selbst sichern könnt. Die Rope-Solo-Technik im Detail Klettert man alleine, jedoch mit Seilsicherung, wird dies als Rope. Lead Solo: Soloist: This is the device I use. Nov 24, 2024 · Disclaimer: Rope soloing is dangerous. Rapping down the rope helps keep the ice from building up. But rope soloing is certainly not for beginners. The downside is that they naturally only recommend Petzl devices. Jun 4, 2018 · i have a mini traxion and micro traction. Feb 10, 2011 · Rope soloing gives you the ability to spend days, weeks… or longer, all alone with the mountain, every inch gained, gained by your toil alone. In this video, I discuss the basics of top rope solo, one of the safest and easiest forms of rope solo climbing. g. For any lead rope soloing system, automatic self-feeding comes by managing free side rope weight with a “cache loop”. To me, climbing is about improbability - from improbabl e positions to unlikely movements. Discontinued. After a discussion of the difference between lead rope soloing and top rope soloing Glen discusses the Apr 26, 2020 · I run a lift on top, micro trax on bottom. Personally I do this fairly often to top out, and thus always use a dynamic rope for TRS. I wouldn't consider using the lift as bottom ascender. One end of the It is a great pleasure to share our knowledge on Lead Rope Solo with all of you. The minitraxion is the better device for rope-soloing, mostly because it better for the sort of rope diameters typically used in rope-soloing (eg. The document has moved here. It is important that these devices feed smoothly without allowing the accumulation of slack. This means that your self-rescue skills need to be well-practiced. Nov 7, 2018 · Besonders Solo-Klettern ist gefährlich! Hier ein System, welches ich längere Zeit benutzt habe, als ich frisch mit dem Toprop-Solo angefangen habe. It would have to be an edge case for me to even contemplate using a dynamic rope in this situation. For a GriGri, this is the "brake" strand of the rope. Mar 5, 2021 · As long as you weight the bottom of your rope, the rope will feed smooth, and any falls will terminate instantly so the need for dynamic ropes is eliminated. It's a very effective way to work the moves on your project for as long as you want without having to drag a belayer along. Dec 8, 2012 · I recently picked up a Petzl Microtraxion to use for hauling light loads, and have also used it several times for top rope soloing [I walked to the top of a crag, fixed a line off the anchor, walked back down, then climbing the route from the bottom with the fixed line running through the Microtraxion to capture my progress]. This can cause long falls or even completely pull the rope out of your device. But one thing that I think I would do differently is from the top to clean, I would rappel with an ATC & third-hand instead of lowering off the grigri. The controversy over free soloing has been around since it’s beginnings – but it’s hard not to be captivated by the unique style of climbing. Trying rope soloing right after bouldering just because you know how to climb is the easiest Dec 6, 2023 · On the Line, Top Rope Soloing Manual "On the Line" is a comprehensive guide to top rope soloing, a climbing technique traditionally passed down informally. Top rope soloing is a dangerous activity only recommended for experts. Its specialized engineering and full stainless-steel construction make it Toprope: Setup für gesichertes Solo-Klettern - Rope Man 2. Father Time 5. If she falls, the PCDs will catch on the rope and arrest her fall. I'm new to rope soloing, and am in the same situation (only own a GriGri 2). goblin as my only device. 10 free climbing sections, and then switching to rope soloing for the crux aid climbing pitches. It may ruin your device, and could easily lead to injury and I think BigRed’s comment is more around the fact that lead rope soloing is significantly harder than just trying to red point the same route. I have a modified GG1 for top rope soloing. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike with free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the Aug 14, 2018 · Rope soloing is simply the ability to climb alone, yet still have the safety of being attached to a rope (rather than free-soloing). Estes park sure is nice. When using that rope I use my Duck instead. There are many different systems to use, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. With both setups, getting the right rope pairing was critical for good feed and lock-up. BTDT. Sep 15, 2021 · abandon moderation wrote: Rock Exotica Silent Partner. I often opt to top rope solo both when working out moves on a project but more commonly on easier routes for some climbing milage. I have Feb 27, 2023 · Use a locking draw to extend the upper or lower device if you want, the options are limitless, but an extremely simple two device setup that only adds maybe 30 seconds of faff per lap is extremely simple to implement and ought to be considered the standard of top rope soloing. Die Sicherung basiert auf einem mechanischen Sicherungsgerät mit Rücklaufsperre und einem Kletterseil . “Free soloing the Freerider takes years of preparation whereas with rope soloing you can just go up there and do it and feel relatively safe. Als Rope Solo (englisch für Solo mit Seil) wird beim Klettern die Begehung einer Kletterroute im Alleingang mit Selbstsicherung bezeichnet. I placed both devices on the rope and tested that they were engaging properly. Allows the rope to run straighter through the device so I spend less attention managing the rope to ensure it’s taking properly. Aug 3, 2016 · As expected soloing with knots was slow and clunky (although safe) and required at least one free hand to pull through slack and tie. Mar 4, 2022 · Rope soloing is the term used for climbing on a fixed rope. The micro-traction is a better device for hauling. Top-rope soloing can definitely feel scary at times, and I think this is probably justified rather than an irrational response. No mods are necessary. And what is more improbable that walking up to a huge wall with a backpack of rope and climbing to the top? Dec 1, 2013 · 1) I prefer the minitraxion for top-rope soloing, mostly because it works much better than the micro on large-diameter ropes. I've never had any issues with my Sep 19, 2022 · Introduction to Top Rope Soloing. When soloing you usually don't have the benefit of a partner who can go for help. The worst thing about soloing with a gri-gri is that it can be a pain in the ass to feed the slack through. Apr 26, 2019 · Pumped out of my mind while toprope soloing on Big Monkey Right (5. Yes we can read an article over here or a few words there about rope soloing, but Yann has put it into the relaxed form of videos where you can sit back and let the infomation flow in! Easy days! One of the biggest dangers in lead rope soloing is back feeding. I like having the lift on top as it catches the rope between plates instead of teeth. Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. Everest Pocket Rocks Top Rope Solo Trango Vergo adjusting adjusting difficulty. Nov 15, 2022 · I'd have to check my book, but I thought a PDL was when you rope solo a pitch on a loop of rope fixed through the anchor, a little like doing a rappel, and don't place any gear, and at the end of the pitch, you untie one end and pull the rope through, so you don't have to rappel and clean the pitch. Rope Soloing 101 – Part 4. Feb 3, 2022 · Climbers can break down the basic process of rope soloing a route into three main phases: leading the pitch, rappelling the pitch, and reascending the pitch to clean the gear used for Top Rope Soloing is the simplest form of rope soloing. Jul 13, 2016 · Free soloing is a type of free climbing that involves climbing routes with no aids or protection whatsoever – no trad gear, no bolts, no rope, nothing to catch a fall. Top rope soloing has been a climbing technique employed by climbers without partners for fifty years, allowing a climber to top rope climbs with a certain degree of safety lacking in simply soloing. I expected my rope soloing system to lock immediately, but I kept falling. It’s possible to rope solo on top rope or lead belay. Top-rope soloing is an integral part of modern climbing. This is when the weight of your rope causes slack to accumulate at the bottom of your climb. In 2018, he launched the Top Rope Solo’s first e-course!!! Here is a bit of Yann’s climbing experience in solo (lead and second) El Capitan – The Shield (5. For top rope solo a trax primary is fine. Jan 2, 2024 · "On the Line" is a comprehensive guide to top rope soloing, a climbing technique traditionally passed down informally. Dies kann mittels einer Seilklemme entlang eines. 0, Revo, Eddy, Grigri 1, Grigri 2, Grigri (2019/3), Grigri Plus, Gob Oct 15, 2021 · Top rope solo climbing is an expert technique that can be extremely dangerous if not done with the proper guidance. P. I was happy with it. The petzl micro traxion seems like Rope Soloing 101 – Part 1. V1 is pretty bad even if you correct that issue. They are also not as resistant to damage from the rope-gripping teeth on some devices, nor to abrasion over edges. The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl. 5 (the best resu Jun 4, 2022 · Soloing can also mean going alone with a rope, but free soloing means no rope. Pretty sure you need a longer rope than 20m Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or free soloist) climbs solo (or alone) without ropes or other protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their climbing chalk. Does anyone with experienc Feb 13, 2011 · Owen Darrow wrote:What your talking about is how you can solo using a gri gri for top rope climbing. Apr 21, 2017 · Keita Kurakami leads Hakuhatsuki, or “Gray Haired Demon,” (5. Aug 25, 2022 · Toprope soloing is when the climber is not tied into the rope directly. i rope solo a lot. The top rope solo pack lists for a day out alone include the following: 2 progress capturing devices on locking carabiners with anti-cross load Gstring Climbing Grips Grigri lead rope solo Grigri hack Gstring Classics Gstring PROs RipCord RollBar adjusting difficulty hangboard lead rope-solo strength training 3D-Sling Chalkbag Chris Webb Parsons Gallows Gstring PRO Hanchor Lead Rope Solo Mt. Apr 14, 2025 · The Combo kit includes El Mudo, Yomi & Chest Harness. Check out our universal fitting neck lanyard for top rope soloing - no modifications needed to pair with your TRS devices! It also lets you avoid crowded and uncomfortable hanging belays. Question: From the January 2006 edition of AAI's E-newsletter. Apr 3, 2008 · Rope Soloing. Follow the steps to build a bomber anchor, tie in, stack the rope and adjust your clove hitches. Subjects include: general principles, devices-specific recommendations, suggested knots, belay anchors, self rescue and more! It includes the Vergo, NEOX, Pinch, Silent Partner, Soloist, El Mudo 2. Thanks for sharing this, I just got a couple of micro-traxions to top-rope-solo with, will definitely give lead-rope-soloing a go now too. 13b, 22 pitches [Lead Rope Solo Redpoint over 5 days, ground up] - Yosemite, CA. ” He also free soloed Freerider, which shares 90% of the terrain of the Salathé, in 2017. But what is needed is a more in-depth manual, that covers every aspect of the big wall solo, as well as comprehensive and clear diagrams - something I’ve never been able to In this video, I explain how I lead rope solo using a gri gri. 0, El Mudo 3. Not sure how that compares durability wise with other pulleys. There are some soloists who free routes while using protection (rope soloing), and aid soloists as well. YouTube Be sure to add weight to the bottom of the rope (like a water bottle, backpack, or rope coil) so that the devices auto-feed smoothly, and you can flow up the route unencumbered. Anyone wishing to rope solo should already have an extensive knowledge of all the systems and equipment needed, as well as a sound knowledge of themselves Jun 1, 2021 · 3. Tying the rope into a ground anchor with some slack (rather than tying into a weight) seems like it solves the issue of the rope not feeding. Dec 20, 2017 · Hi all - Reaching out to the community for comments on experience. I've heard of that before but never lead. Feb 13, 2025 · Top-rope soloing is becoming increasingly popular. Ich hatte zu dem RollNLock noch keine Erfahrungen gefunden und daher das System noch mal mit zwei Prusikschlingen ergänzt. Free climbing can certainly be dangerous, depending on the style of climbing, the climber’s experience level, rock and weather conditions, and many other factors. Leading possibly, toproping certainly. The shunt is a clamp style and will not hurt the rope and is slightly cheaper. A cache loop of the free rope hanging down about 15 feet or less will pull smoothly through the device (if the full dangling free rope weights the device, it will lock up Rope solo climbing is climbing alone but with a rope to help arrest a fall, or for a self-rescue if required. 8c im seilgesicherten Alleingang! Unvorstellbar für mich. Rope-Solo Klettern ist gefährlich […] Read More › Apr 2, 2017 · Me, Myself & I - the forbidden dark art of roped soloing, for climbers who either need to know in order to make the ultimate climb come true, or those who just like technique ‘nerdiness’. Jun 23, 2020 · Sam Skovgaard wrote: Toothed devices do not chew up your rope. No, he's talking about lead. Join the Lead Rope Solo group on FBtons of good (and some bad) info. It’s useful only if you are guaranteed not to be able to find a climbing partner over the long term in a remote location, or if you’ll be equipping new routes or continually working on hard projects. 13a, 9 pitches [Lead Rope Solo free over multiple days] - Yosemite, CA. For various reasons, these techniques were never formally codified or documented for others to learn from or build upon; instead, they were passed Aug 20, 2024 · Climbers have been asking me for years to write more about the dark art of rope soloing, and I’ve tried to cover some aspects on my blog, plus coached others by email. The problem of back feeding occurs when the weight of the "up" or "wall" side of the rope gets heavy enough to pull rope through your solo device. ! El Mudo 3. I have had multiple people tell me you want to avoid weighting the micro trax for that reason, and one friend even declined using my rope as a fixed line for taking photos (with a micro) when he realized it was a brand new dry treated rope, because he was going to feel so bad about it. Feb 27, 2021 · For leading with the rope in a pack the Eldelrid Eddy worked best because of the direction of rope feed. A. Mar 17, 2023 · In the Facebook group “lead rope solo“, someone has been exploring the idea of a hybrid bungee cord/quick draw. Rope Soloing. It's fun, but you have to be super super wary of iced up ropes. Rope Soloing 101 – Part 3. 12 votes, 17 comments. Jul 12, 2023 · The "rope" consisted of a 120cm sling clipped to the anchor and a tail of rope tied to the other end of it. You should be able to ascend or descend the rope if needed, as well as know how to escape the belay. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that un number of climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions. On this course we cover the systems needed top rope solo effectively and safely including anchor construction, soloing devices, managing rope abrasion, back up systems and much more. I have not used silent partner, but top rope often solo and have used different devices, e. Dec 23, 2020 · This is a problem with all camming devices used in TR solo (including stuff like the CAMP Lift). Russian Ushba (I believe not available anymore), Petzl shunt, and 2 different ascenders. sean connors · Apr 3, 2008 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul Enhance your top rope solo climbing safety and efficiency with our Universal Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard—professionally designed for seamless compatibility with all devices and tailored for comfort, it eliminates the DIY hassle, ensuring a perfect fit for every climber on fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipit Sep 24, 2020 · Rope Soloing. If you do happen to take a fall on your soloist upside down or take the SP out on a really cold day and take a big whip down to your cat knot, you missed the part about being seriously injured and now just hanging by a single cam, possibly out in space, with no partner to help rescue you. I'm building my top rope solo setup. Moved Permanently. Hmm. The grigri doesn't feed rope well, but assuming that you are only trying to unlock your beta/sequences, this won't be an issue because it's unlikely that you'll be going for an ascent in a single push. The dark art of rope soloing is generally only used by die-hard climbers. Ok yeah, if it was A4 aid climbing that’s exactly what he was doing, free soloing as much as possible, probably free soloing up to the 5. I'll likely try rope soloing all mixed up within the next few days if the wind forecast stays low to see how the revo does in the cold. If you periodically clip into a second rope as a backup, this can result in a bight of rope below your feet, which Murphy's Law says WILL snag on an icicle at the worst possible moment. Entsprechend müsst ihr entweder eine Route wählen, bei der ihr zu Fuss den Stand (Umlenker) erreicht oder in der euch eine Person (Familienmitglied, Drittperson im Klettergarten) beim ersten Go im Vorstieg zum Einrichten einmal sichert. For soloing, I use a Kong Duck mini-ascender with a paracord sling around my neck to keep the device high on the fixed rope, prevent it from weighting the rope dynamically, and to keep it separate from my Petzl Microtraxion, which I use below the Duck as a backup. This type of rock climbing requires rigging a grigri or other locking belay device to the rope attached to a fixed object, like a tree, called a rappel anchor. Self-rescue. Dec 3, 2021 · Good post. This is important for TR soloing cruxes off the ground/ledges but even more important for traversing and overhanging pitches. As long as you weight the line you're climbing on, the rope should feed well (I just clove the rope to my pack at the bottom). The Gri Gri still stays on your harness. Beim Klettern unterscheidet man grundsätzlich zwischen Technischem Klettern und Freiklettern. Risk. [2] [3] Instead of having a belayer, the climber uses a self-locking device that will hold the rope in the case of a fall, and leads the route in a traditional climbing manner, placing climbing protection as they ascend. fixierten Seils, aber auch im Vorstieg praktiziert werden. Petzl has not developed a device for this activity, but certain ascenders may be used for it by experts. That person seems to be getting good initial results, but it is early days yet. another Solo climbing system, not continuous (tag line is free) Aug 7, 2019 · Wanting to get opinions on a possible solution to back feeding while lead rope soloing. For the backup slip-knot, if you are worried that it might come undone, you can also clip a carabiner through the s The spring in my first Spoc broke after using it for a rope solo backup, lasted about two years. Cousin of Death 5. Curriculum: Jun 5, 2024 · “Maybe I should call it free solo plus. . A lot of it comes from Gear Solutions for the Core Rock Climber: including product offerings for lead rope solo, top rope solo, multipitch, and trad (traditional) rock climbing. I wasn’t aware of people short-fixing using it in the 1980s but it’s certainly a possibility. Westie Face 5. Jun 17, 2023 · Top Rope Soloing is the simplest form of rope soloing. Just don't climb above the master point if you're on a static line. Another person suggested “mooring compensators”, used by boat owners to absorb loading in the mooring line when the boat is docked. I TR rope solo ice, following Petzl's recommendations to a T. Rope Soloing 101 – Part 2. Feb 21, 2017 · I am also looking for a device for top rope solo and of the many methods what device is seen as the most effective and versatile. For the climbers below, free soloing is one aspect in a mosaic of climbing experiences and achievements. Rope soloing the Salathé is quite different though. One single line down from the anchors,(cut a 70 meter rope in half and just use one strand this cuts about 7 lbs from your pack weight too) one solo device, and tie back up knot in your line as you go. Rope Solo Nose in a Day [18 hour 30 minutes] - Yosemite, CA Jan 30, 2025 · Responding to the posts so far: I believe that self-belaying with a rope fixed to a top anchor is commonly referred to as top-rope soloing. The following characteristics are essential for any self-belay system: Roped Solo (lead) Climbing With Grigri: WARNING: Climbing is inherently dangerous! Climbing solo is even more dangerous, follow this instructable at your own risk. I read like May 27, 2019 · The most authoritative source that I know of is Petzl's articles on top-rope soloing. The device isn’t locking. ) Haul packs or lighter haul bags, with the Traxion on the anchor. Nov 3, 2017 · seriously, though,. On a single pitch climb, I simply tie the sharp end of the rope off to a tree/rock then attach my device to the opposing side along with a ballast to keep the rope somewhat taught. Soloing is much more gear intensive. uxkih yaiet wduqwhgq jvvnzd febhrrmjx kab pvwntjm xgaosp duon zzjzk eqwbc mmzhht dkpc chzii yckqgmp