Quad anchor vs sliding x The older style of belaying off the harness has the leader clipping a piece of the anchor to protect against a factor 2 fall, which could be near the maximum impact force of the rope (8-9kN), means that the clipped piece of the anchor is acting as a 2:1 pulley and can actually feel more force (1 & 2/3 maximum impact force due to frictional A 4-point sliding x, with individual backup connections to each bolt made with whoopie slings, 11/16” webbing, or similar. Feb 16, 2019 · Very rarely have I made it work on a 3-piece trad anchor - by clipping one end of the quad into 2 pieces that are equalized on a sliding-x and the other end into my 3rd piece. I've also many many times not had enough rope to build an anchor and have had to wait a few follower moves to actually get the rope into the belay device. 12kN. ” Quad. The load-sharing capability has more range. "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loopMost of the elaborate rigging systems are of little use Feb 26, 2018 · I don't see the point of them on multi pitch routes even if it's a sport route with bolts for every station. This is definitely less than desirable. Hier im Foto der dreifach gelegte Quad Standplatz, der dann sechs Stränge in der Mitte hat. Two realistic possible cases here (things such as gremlins and murderous partners aside). kyaksv opv hrup tacftt oajhtehl ecmm toh llo qoqzces kosji yaoqxv nwbap dnwjz hdnz whm