Best ice axe for scottish winter.
Best ice axe for scottish winter Summary: For us these were the best mitts on test. You just need to keep replacing them every dozen routes or so and you'll be able to maintain warm hands pretty regardless of the fact the ice climb you're on is actually a raging waterfall Jan 21, 2025 · Raven Ice Axe with Grip - £110. Movement on snow and ice: Use of the Winter boot as a tool- kicking steps. The location may change Jan 3, 2019 · Our guide to ice axes: what to look for, how to pick an axe for walking, and our selection of the best models. As with crampons, having an axe on or in your bag won't be much use if you do fall, so have it out and ready as soon as the ground starts feeling remotely Feb 19, 2014 · The glove is very articulated, meaning it's easier to grip an ice axe, but perhaps a bit overkill for those more interested in winter walking than smashing up grade V ice. The Use of Classic Scottish Mountain Ridges: Summer and Winter hill walking experience is essential. The traditional method of choosing a walking ice axe. You can view Winter and Alpine Hardware Review – Part 1: Classic Ice Axes and Crampons by clicking here. Pack. uk. Sep 1, 2014 · I'm looking into getting an ice axe and have a small dilemma for which I could do with a bit of advice. No model is as much of a blend between a traditional ice axe and an ice tool than the Petzl Sum'tec, and that's a good thing. As a general rule, shorter axes are best for climbing, and longer axes are better for walking. I've also climbed mixed and ice routes with friends' Nomics and the new Quarks. com Oct 1, 2024 · Here is a simple guide when thinking about getting an ice axe ahead of a Scottish winter. Over 60 climbers from 20 countries took to the Scottish hills from 2-7 March for the first International Winter Meet since 2020. com info@scotmountainholidays. How Should I Prepare? You should have summer hillwalking experience, but no previous winter walking experience is needed. In part three of our Scottish Winter Essentials series on EpicTV, we take a look at ice axes. Winter navigation techniques. General mountaineering means to me walking, easy gully's and mixed ridges. Mar 14, 2017 · In a brand new series on EpicTV, mountain guide Zeemon Erhardt talks us through all the kit essential for Scottish winter climbing conditions. Amazing experience and I learned to use an ice axe and crampons! to be repeated! Highly recommended! Caroline | Edinburgh There are youtube tutorials with various winter skills including navigation and ice axe arrests / cutting steps that would be worth watching, and I'm sure will cover equipment more in depth. Best for versatility: Petzl Summit Evo Ice Axe. On our Winter Skills Courses you will learn how to manage these risks and: Use crampons, ice axe and good footwork to guard against slips and falls; Use an ice axe to stop a slide before it becomes serious; Move on steep ground under icy conditions, including how to kick and cut steps Oct 25, 2022 · The B rating is given to ice axes designed to perform Basic functions. Enjoy the best mountaineering and climbing with a guide on Classic Winter Mountaineering and From a walking pov: If you're venturing into the hills and you've not used an ice axe before, go do a winter skills course. Currently considering either the Blue Ice Akila or the BD Venom LT. Managing the weather and avalanche hazard in Winter is all part of the challenge! We’ll do our best to pick the best route for that day given the prevailing conditions. Excellent general ice climbing axe suited to both Scottish winter and continental icefall climbing, with a choice of either adze or hammer. If your ice axe is too long on the other hand, it could prove unhelpful for use in self-arrest. Learn to climb snow, ice and mixed routes in the Cairngorms, on Ben Nevis and in Glen Coe. Go for a general mountaineering axe. Mar 7, 2017 · In a brand new series on EpicTV, mountain guide Zeemon Erhardt talks us through all the kit essential for Scottish winter climbing conditions. This looks at the best axe for general winter mountaineering. An experienced summer climber will be able to transfer many of their skills to the winter environment. Which ice axe do I choose? The ice axe is an indispensable winter tool, essential for safe travel on snow and ice. May 1, 2023 · That’s why we’re here to assist you in picking the best Ice Axe For Scottish Winter . Essential equipment for Ben Nevis and winter mountains in Scotland. If your ice axe is too short, it could actually pose a risk as the head could end up too close to your vital organs during self-arrest. It is also crucial to check out the mountain weather forecast before heading for the hills. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search. But there’s a lot more to winter than the kit; your whole mind-set needs to change - hence the advice from experts that you need to get your winter head on” or, in the words of the safety campaign, #ThinkWinter. Safety Essentials: Headlamp: Carry a reliable headlamp with spare batteries. Jan 21, 2025 · Raven Ice Axe with Grip - £110. Also not assuming a small blue line on a Scottish map is a crossable river ;-) I used to go along the tops more where proper ice axe and crampons are key but since then we mainly follow pass routes & I haven't used the ice axe apart from chopping kindling (my mate doesn't even bring one). rather than a more traditional 'hold by your side and it be just of the ground or by your ankle or whatever'. gl/A4DtoC Ice Axes: https://goo. Living in Holland it's currently quite a challenge to go to Scotland so I leaf This course is perfect for you if you are an active summer hillwalker who is happy carrying a heavier bag (winter bags are always a little heavier due to the crampons and ice axe and extra layers that are required). Then something more along the Dec 19, 2023 · Hey folks, I'm window shopping axes for some low grade winter climbs, up to III, maybe IV. Dec 31, 2020 · Unlike ice axe and crampons, snowshoes are best thought of as niche kit that you won't want to carry on every winter hill or climbing day. Scottish winter mountaineering at its best! These guys really know their stuff and I felt in very safe hands for my first venture up to this height in winter. Some have suggested that for a typical Scottish winter having blunt tips is not a problem. Technical ice axe and ice hammer Crampons – vertically orientated front points are best, or sharp new mountaineering crampons are also fine Snowshoes or ski mountaineering equipment for Winter Couloirs/Norwegian ice climbing trips – please contact us for advice; Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment. When there’s snow on the hills walkers need an ice axe. In addition to putting them through their paces on Scottish winter routes, as conditions have allowed, we conducted head-to-head comparisons between them all in more controlled environments, both dry tooling and an indoor ice wall, Glasgow's Snow Factor. Learn self-arrest and basic ice axe techniques before you venture into the mountains in winter. Kirsty often wears liner gloves in winter under her main gloves, and these were tested both with and without. It’s not until you move beyond these grades that using more technical equipment will make routes feel more secure. But I was looking for something that kind of bridges the gap between a walking axe a fully technical ice axe. Avalanche awareness/evaluation training. It can be used as an aid to balance, for support, for purchase when climbing, for digging and step cutting and as an emergency brake. In part three o Scottish winter climbing is known around the world for its adventure and traditional ethics. We've been using this selection of tools since autumn 2017. Winter Crampon & ice axe skills . to gully climbs such as Number 2 Gully (II). And, crucially, knowing how to use them properly. We offer a range of Scottish winter climbing courses to suit all levels of climber, from beginners learning winter skills, through to advanced ice climbers wanting to tackle the classic routes on the gullies and faces. Grade II: Steeper sections with ice, but still normally less than vertical. Use of the ice axe. There are different types of crampons for different uses. Dec 18, 2024 · Whether or not I bring one depends on the conditions and the location of my winter hike. Here are a few of the lower-grade, easier, Scottish The article assumes that the climber is about to embark on a traditional Scottish climbing trip(s) rather than some more exotic and elevated destination. Day 2: As part of the first mountain day we will revise your skills for moving safely and efficiently on snow covered terrain with the use of crampons and ice axe including ice axe arrest. Confusingly though picks for ice axes are also either 'T' or 'B' rated. Avalanche awareness, safe route planning. Jan 22, 2020 · Go for a general mountaineering axe. Hoping to use them for a mix of scottish winter (up to around III/IV), ski mountaineering, summer alpinism, etc. First Aid Kit: Include items for treating common winter injuries. Grades III+: Increasingly long sections of steep climbing and commitment. For all rounders that are good for a mix of alpinism, ice climbing and Scottish winter climbing, we really rate Black Diamond Vipers, DMM Apexs and Petzl Quarks as our favourites (other pure ice tools can still be used for this type of activity if you fit thicker picks, but will take a battering and the highly sculpted grips make plunging into Feb 16, 2018 · Testing. We recommend carrying a torch (preferably head torch) when venturing into the wilderness in winter. Whiteouts can be a very big risk, and while a compass can help, it will point you in the right general direction but necessarily onto the correct path to safety. This includes weather forecast and avalanche forecast interpretation and how to plan a day out in the Winter Mountains. Winter clothing and equipment. Dec 19, 2013 · Beinn Bhan is one of the great mountains of the northwest, with an east face that's been bitten into a series of monumental corries. After a Poco Loco burger, a few pints and changing weather conditions we headed to Rive Gauche in search of Scottish winter style mixed climbing among beautiful water ice lines in the Argentiere Glacier. The T rating is given to Technical axes designed for climbing and mountaineering use. Safe mountain walking skills in Scottish winter conditions. I've used them on some Welsh and English winter climbs, although not actually in Scotland, if I remember right. Many of the particular skills required for safe winter walking are better demonstrated than described. Fantastic day out with Stevie and Adrian today climbing Stob Ghabhar. These handles are shorter and more curved, to enable you to swing them more easily on steep walls. What skills are typically covered on a winter skills course? Personal movement skills on snow (digging stances, kicking and cutting steps). Learn the basic skills for single axe routes on an Intro to Winter Climbing course or if you already have a bit of mileage under your belt then a Winter Climbing Progression course will get you on routes at grade III and above, requiring a pair of axes. This 3-day winter skills course in Scotland is a challenging yet rewarding weekend and a fantastic introduction into the winter mountaineering skills needed on Island Peak, Mera Peak or even Mt Toubkal in Winter conditions. Jan 18, 2013 · The Apex is a seriously impressive go anywhere, do anything (and generally do it brilliantly) jack of all trades technical axe which is perfectly at home on all but the very hardest Scottish winter routes, valley icefalls and alpine lines – well done DMM. This article looks at how to choose it and then how to use it, so that you can discover some of the great places the ice axe can take you. These gloves are little like a beefed up version of the Arc'teryx Cam SV gloves mentioned lower down in the review, except they are thicker and have a proper cuff. But if you only have the day then make Nov 1, 2020 · In reply to. The shape of an ice axe handle (shaft) and head section (pick) is a better clue to its intended use. The traditional mantra: hold the axe by the head with the shaft pointing downwards. The conclusion? You're going to want something versatile like the Petzl Quark, unless you're climbing the really technical stuff. com +44 (0) 1479 831 331 Feb 21, 2019 · In a brand new series on EpicTV, mountain guide Zeemon Erhardt talks us through all the kit essential for Scottish winter climbing conditions. Winter Walking in North Wales or Scotland Summer hill walking experience is essential. I largely wand a walking axe but for steeper ground as I'd usually use poles for flatter stuff so I know I want a short one 50-55cm. A crampon is a traction device attached to the base of your boot to aid travel in winter conditions. The challenge in winter is much tougher but escapes the summer crowds and provides some spectacular winter views. Just wanted to back up what wilkie14c has suggested. Technical Axes/Tools As we move into the vertical frozen world the shape of our tools becomes more critical to our security and ease of movement the shape will allow us to climb some incredible features that were not imaginable when I Jan 30, 2024 · Learning to self-arrest with an ice axe is an invaluable winter skill - practice before you go on a small, snowy knoll, or somewhere else safe but steep enough to simulate the real thing. Jan 22, 2025 · What are the best ice axes of 2025? Best in Test: Petzl Glacier Adze Ice Axe. Mar 16, 2025 · Alex Roddie tested these ice axes on a range of day routes and short backpacking trips throughout the Cairngorms and West Highlands, including a real mix of terrain – typical easier winter walking all the way up to Grade I gullies and easy mixed ridges. Blue Ice Evo, DMM Cirque, Grivel Air Tech are all good axes. The DMMs have a more radical curve but are still good all-rounders. Home › Forums › Chat Forum › What Scottish winter mountain gear to hopefully not use? Search Overview Chat Bike Members News Women This topic has 83 replies, 33 voices, and was… We have a wide range of winter mountain boots (plastic and leather) , ice axes (walking and technical), crampons (walking & stepins) available for hire. Scottish Winter Climbing Scotland’s winter mountains can be as challenging and uncompromising as any other mountain landscape in the world. Oct 19, 2018 · After your boots, an ice axe is possibly the single most useful piece of kit for winter walking. Ice axe and crampons. Ice, frozen turf, vertical snowed up rock, plastered on rime ice and the odd bit of rock climbing in gloves; Scottish mixed climbing has a bit of everything. Feb 14, 2023 · The upper part of the hanging ice fang was climbed Dave MacLeod and Andy Nelson when they climbed The Snotter in February 2013. Jan 25, 2018 · The seeds of modern ice climbing were sown. Experience the thrill of winter climbing in Scotland on this 4-Day odyssey. Using an Ice Axe- including self arrest and self belay. More recently climbers like Ian Parnell, Dave Macleod, Andy Turner, Guy Robertson, Uisdean Hawthorn and Greg Boswell have brought Scottish winter climbing back onto the world stage. This gear guide was first published in the February 2018 issue of The Great Outdoors. Feb 25, 2020 · W ith its wet and windy weather, stinging spindrift, high aerobic output and general wear and tear, winter is hard on your waterproofs. Jan 14, 2022 · How long your ice axe should be is partially determined by its usage, and also your height and body proportions. Ben Nevis’ North Face is world renowned, attracting The Mountaineering Council of Scotland: The Length of your Ice Axe? In a past edition of Scottish Mountaineer (SM6, December 2000) an article giving information and advice about winter mountaineering elicited many comments regarding what was considered to be the best length of an ice axe for climbing and for general mountaineering. Weight: 235g. Using techniques such as swinging, hooking and torquing to ascend winter climbs, we will be looking at climbing rope work and safety on steep terrain. By Chris Townsend. Winter mountaineering level 2 - Outline Itinerary. Jan 28, 2022 · The number of different modular-headed ice axes has increased in the past few years, and manufacturers are responding to this rapidly growing hybrid category. From the classic ice routes of Ben Nevis, to the technical granite challenges of the Cairngorms, you're sure to have a memorable time as you enhance your winter climbing skills. You will gain avalanche awareness, as well as how to generally equip yourself for the hills at this magical time of year. They ascended steep rock further right to gain the ice, but the prize of the complete ice feature remained. 'T' rated picks are heavier duty and are designed for Scottish winter and alpine mixed climbing, but are also suitable for icefalls, whilst 'B' rated picks have finer blades and are only suitable for pure water ice climbing. Winter navigation and route finding. Food and Hydration: The article assumes that the climber is about to embark on a traditional Scottish climbing trip(s) rather than some more exotic and elevated destination. A good example - albeit a big step up for most walkers - is Ledge Route on Ben Nevis. This gives some idea of the added seriousness of tackling any of Scotland's Munros in the snowy season. Winter climbing and mountaineering courses for Scottish winter. Our winter boots sizes now range from size 4 to size 13. Oct 31, 2024 · A typical course will include an introduction to good footwork, ice axe and crampon skills, navigation and avalanche awareness. Scottish winter summits - Outline Itinerary. Climbers setting out in winter will have the same climbing equipment as summer with the addition of extra gear to place, such as ice screws, as well as two technical ice axes and a pair of crampons that are rated for climbing. com. Crampons are essential kit for exploring Scotland's mountains when they're covered by snow or ice. These routes are perfect for winter walkers wanting to take their next steps towards tackling harder ridges or moving onto steeper ground such as gullies Dec 6, 2017 · Saved Content. Photo: Stu Smith. Last year during lockdown I bought Garry Smith's Scotland's Winter Mountains With One Axe, a book full of grade I/II routes. It is usually climbed with crampons and axes and sometimes in terrible weather (this is Scotland after all As most winter deaths in the hills result from head injuries, it is recommended that you also wear a helmet. Ciara | Edinburgh Lochaber is arguably Scotland’s greatest winter mountaineering region. Back in 1906, according to the SMC annals, one Harold Raeburn climbed the hardest ice climb in the world: Green Gully on Ben Nevis (IV, 3). Amazing day out winter mountaineering in Scotland in the snow with Stevie and Adrian yesterday. A walking axe at a good price point, and with an exceptionally ergonomic head for holding when walking, the Raven with Grip is essentially the same as the Raven, but provides a couple of added features over the standard Raven to deliver a walking axe that is slightly more versatile and ergonomic. You can use it for support, cutting steps, digging holes, making anchors and most crucially it will stop you if you slip. Winter Walking Skills (2-5 days): The essential winter skills for safe winter hill walking. 60cm is a good all-round length that works for most people in most Scottish winter mountaineering circumstances up-to grade II. For many winter adventures, you can use your axe for both. Unlike Harold Raeburns 1906 ascent of Green gully on Ben Nevis, with one axe, some hobnailed boots and a hemp rope Type 1: Standard walking and alpine mountaineering axes, suitable for ice axe belaying, but not designed for hard modern mixed climbing involving torquing picks etc. Dec 7, 2012 · To the OP: I've had Quarks since 2000. “Finding an ice feature so distinct in Scotland is almost unheard of,” Greg told me. I was hoping that someone would tell me a well regarded pair of axes that I could use and not be overkill at the start but what i wouldn't expect to want to replace quickly either. Feb 14, 2024 · As its name suggests, this is an axe primarily intended for glacier travel. The warmth was excellent, easily up to the job in Alpine winter, Scotland and we would love to take them to the Greater Ranges, confident the UKC review budget would take more of a battering than our hands would in these warm, tough and fairly dextrous mitts. Use of Crampons- French/Flat Footing, Front Pointing, Hybrid Winter Mountaineering. The axe’s spike can be driven into the slope for stability and, on steeper ground, the pick can used for purchase. Use it alone, or with the addition of crampons, for a secure day out in winter. If you don't know what your doing, don't expect to come back. A walking ice axe is longer and straighter than the aggressive looking, curved pairs that ice climbers and alpinists use. Use the former to clear rime, and the latter to hammer protection into cracks. At Grade II a second axe is often handy but this depends on the route, conditions, and climber. Ben Nevis Winter skills for the hills. I've came across and probably narrowed it down to the CT Hound + or Dron+, but there doesn't appear to be that much of a difference between them to warrant the two different models. Introduction to winter skills courses also running for the basics of ice axes and crampon techniques. Saved Content. No matter how challenging the trail, always be prepared for unforeseen circumstances. Ice Axe: Select an ice axe that suits your objectives and height. Best mountaineering backpacks at a glance: Best in test: Mammut Trion 50 - View on alpinetrek. Scottish Winter weather evaluation skills. I'm also currently just a poor student so not really able to get multiple pairs right now. Jan 8, 2019 · Kinlochleven, Scottish Highlands. Technical axes come in pairs - one has an adze and one a hammer. With experienced instructors that pick the best route for the conditions, you will always have a memorable climb in winter. Jimmy Marshall In the winter of 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith completed the most significant week of climbing ever achieved in Scotland. Coping with the winter environment needs careful judgement matching the weather, snow conditions and mountain journey. gl/qtjQYK Best Ice Axes For Scottish Winter Climbing 5 days ago · The gloves were tested in a wet winter and spring season of 2023/2024 working as an instructor, and winter climbing and mountaineering in the Scottish Highlands, both on snow and rock. Best value: Highlander Ben Nevis 52L - View on highlander-outdoor. We learned loads of new techniques including how to use crampons and an ice axe! Feeling more confident in managing Scottish winter conditions and looking forward to getting another day out with them soon. Types of Ice Axe. Type 2: Modern leashless tools suitable for ice axe belaying, and also designed for hard modern mixed climbing involving torquing picks etc. The case seems to be based on two things: Intro to Winter Skills (2 days) This is your first step to enjoying the mountains in winter. My current favourites are made by Darn Tough. It’s very much an emergency technique, so it’s far better to learn good footwork and navigation first. The picks when stored slide nicely into an integrated flap, however the shaft attachment point is not the best; being part of the bungee cord from the front of the pack, it requires the side compression straps to be Introduction to snow and ice climbing. DMM Cirque ice axe. His innovation of the Terrordactyl, which hosts a range of similarities to the modern axes of today, has been accredited as revolutionising the discipline of winter climbing in Scotland and globally. In such conditions the unaided walker will end up postholing – an exhausting struggle that saps energy and slows progress. The Scottish mountains offer some world class mountaineering routes- the ground between winter walking and winter climbing. Best Value: DMM Spire Ice Axe. There’s everything from classic winter climbs and life-affirming ridge traverses to superb but technically straightforward winter walks. Avalanche awareness Nov 10, 2021 · Looking to purchase an ice axe for use on Scottish Winter Mountains. We will cover the use of crampons and ice-axes (where appropriate), prior to the commencement of our winter walks. Best women's winter hiking pack: Deuter Freescape Pro 38+ SL - View on alpinetrek. Ciara | Edinburgh May 21, 2012 · (by Allister Gerrard, from IMC Newsletter Spring 2012) I have been going to Scotland for a number of years, winter mountaineering and climbing. Feb 13, 2025 · Top Class Winter Skills Booked onto the 5 day winter skills course in February, based out of Fort William, and had a brilliant time!Andreas knew good spots to practice the basics of crampon and ice axe use, and we put these to the test with bigger hills days in the latter half of the week. You will have experience of using crampons and ice-axes. Mainly for walking but also grade i/ii and at the very most grade iii gullies and ridge routes. Brace yourself for everything you need to know about buying the best product available. The Black Diamond Speed Zip 33l i s a great all-round pack. Dec 3, 2024 · Please note: some hikes require basic winter skills, other may require use of winter gear like ice axe, mini-crampons or micro-spikes. uk Jan 6, 2022 · Together with the walking axes you already have they would give you much more freedom of movement and they don't have to be (very) expensive. Amazing experience and I learned to use an ice axe and crampons! to be repeated! Highly recommended! Caroline | Edinburgh Icicle: Scottish Winter courses. The exact programme will operate according to weather conditions and the progress of the group, but typically on a 6 -day course (5 mountain days) we would aim to cover: Winter Equipment & Clothing; Use of ice axe and crampons including ice axe arrest; Ropework, snow and ice anchors and belaying Jan 2, 2025 · The winter climbing courses make use of two axe climbing on snow, ice and mixed routes. Ice axes and very few other items are a little confusing! I've been so far hiring ice axes and I used DMM Flys - I think they are good but heavy. wilkie14c:. There’s a large variety of axes out there however most ice axes fall into one of They are good options for alpine and waterfall ice climbing, and Scottish mountaineering. Going back to the OP, for easier winter scrambles (Scottish Grade I) a single walking axe will suffice - self arrest and the odd bit of using it as a handhold is all you need. Winter skills are essential to keep you alive. With it, you can cut steps, check the snowpack, dig a shelter, cut blocks and prevent falls. If you don’t already have ice axe and crampons skills you will need to attend a pre challenge-training day on the Friday. On Scotland’s mountains, winter is the season of ice axes and crampons. Graded II in winter, this is the classic easier ridge route on the forbidding north side of Ben Nevis – mostly straightforward general mountaineering terrain, but highly exposed, highly consequential should you slip, and with sections that may require a rope. The case seems to be based on two things: Dec 3, 2019 · He was a man very far ahead of his time and his ice axe plays a significant role in the Scottish Mountaineering Club to this day. Scotland offers unique mountaineering adventures – from classic ridges such as the Aonach Eagach (II) and Tower Ridge (IV, 3). DMM Cirque and Grivel Air Tech are good examples. From summer to winter. Two new axes are turning heads this season - the Black Diamond Hydra and the DMM Cortex. Dec 8, 2014 · And the winter grades done with one axe were certainly grade II and indeed many of the best winter climbers got into grade III/IV - These were the 'classic' winter climbs of their times - and many still are. I have seen there is a wide variety of ice axes, mainly I assume I am interested in a more general purpose one such as the Petzl Summit or the BD Raven Grip. Perfect for winter skills and climbing courses. The Sum'tec is the brainchild of the late Ueli Steck (along Winter mountaineering boots from La Sportiva, crampon hire, Ice axes, helmets, goggles and more. Mar 10, 2013 · In Scotland, anything artificial in the mountains is frowned upon thanks to a long upheld tradition of leader-placed protection and ‘ground up’ climbing. The winter skills videos below have been prepared by Glenmore Lodge and offer a useful introduction to the equipment and skills required for heading to the Scottish mountains in winter: Jan 29, 2025 · After over 20 years of running courses and holidays in the Scottish Mountains, Andy is now something of an expert in how to ice axe arrest +44 (0) 1479 831 331 info@scotmountainholidays. Two axes are necessary. While conditions tend to be more reliable in the Cairngorms, when the weather gods do smile on the west, Lochaber is hard to beat. Nov 28, 2023 · Looking for a good do-it-all pair of ice axes. Dusting off your B3 boots, ice axes and crampons, is best done ahead of the first snow so you can re-lace your boots or sharpen the axes that you meant to sharpen at the end of last season. Jul 20, 2021 · For the winter climbers, the bag has two ice axe attachments that tuck away into small flaps located on the front of the pack. Despite their simple appearance, modern axes are very varied and specialised, requiring professional training to use properly. Feb 9, 2024 · Head to Head: DMM Cortex vs Black Diamond Hydra Ice Axes . It takes a bit of forward planning and organising to get there, finding suitable accommodation and of course deciding on the areas and routes to walk and climb in the Scottish highlands in winter. Looking at how to use crampons and ice axe, winter navigation and avalanche assessment. One of the advantages is that you can stop a slip turning into a slide straight away. Tools like the Petzlcharlet Nomic, Black Diamond Fusion and DMM Switches come into their own on hard, steeper ice or mixed routes. Mostly climbable with one axe, but some may require two. Bespoke winter skills courses are available for groups or individuals through-out the winter starting at £300 per day. Technical ice axe and ice hammer; Crampons – vertically orientated front points are best, or sharp new mountaineering crampons are also fine; Snowshoes or ski mountaineering equipment for Winter Couloirs/Norwegian ice climbing trips – please contact us for advice; Your guide will have ropes, climbing rack, first aid and survival equipment. Use of crampons. gl/A6Jvwf Best Ice Axes Feb 21, 2022 · Crampons will be needed for icy conditions, as will an ice axe and knowledge of how to use it. Feb 2, 2021 · On classic mountaineering ascents, be that alpine PDs or those Scottish ridges and gullies that blur the line between walking and climbing, a single axe is needed which offers security when walking on steep ground, and that can also be swung into snow or ice on steeper steps. Unfortunately the weather had slightly different ideas, but our plan was fully adjustable and we made the Feb 13, 2023 · Celebrating the joys of the Scottish Winter season for hill-walking and scrambling. The climbing Mar 30, 2017 · In a brand new series on EpicTV, mountain guide Zeemon Erhardt talks us through all the kit essential for Scottish winter climbing conditions. Damn good. granted you can usualy bridge making them less strenuous but the ice is very much vertical in places. Hi Maddie. The point and teeth cut effortlessly, and that plus the short shaft length meant this tool really shone when used to dagger uphill or cut into snow or ice above the head. Hamaish MacInnes is renowned for the production of the first technical Ice Axes. Jan 25, 2023 · When your hands are cold they don't work well, so gloves are an essential part of your Scottish winter kit. Excellent balance and lightness combined with Grivel's razor sharp Ice Vario Blade and a really nice moulded rubber Sep 2, 2009 · In reply to browndog33: The ideal glove combo I've found is 3-4 brand new pairs of decent waterproof insulated mountain gloves (Black Diamond Guide Gloves are ideal). co. In 2014, Ueli Steck visited, and commented: "Scottish winter climbing was the beginning of mixed climbing. This has only happened once, on the Hardergrat, and it all happened so quickly I cannot honestly say if the ice axe actually helped or not. May 31, 2012 · I am wanting to get involved with Scottish winter climbing next year and go to the Alps again in the summer with a view on getting in to mixed and winter ice climbing. All our Scottish Winter trips are based out of a comfortable hotel in Fort William. The Scottish winter can be very changeable but this makes for some awesome winter conditions. Feb 14, 2025 · Winter in alpine conditions means a lot more kit than the rest of the year. Oct 8, 2015 · Iv done several grade III's in good condition with substancial (ie >2m therfore all 4 points of contact are on the same sheet) vertical ice, and the two or three grade IV water ice routes i have done have had multiple moves on vertical ice. The ice falls and mixed routes on these huge tiered crags give some of the longest and most sought after winter climbs in the area. We have gone through the difficult process of evaluating every product in detail to find the best one. Probably the best climbing in the UK is the mixed winter climbing in Scotland. Feb 21, 2019 · In a brand new series on EpicTV, mountain guide Zeemon Erhardt talks us through all the kit essential for Scottish winter climbing conditions. Dec 16, 2016 · It's often said there is no such thing as winter hillwalking - it's real mountaineering. Self arrest is one of many ice axe skills you should learn early on in your winter hill walking career. May 6, 2022 · I have used an ice axe like this on a few of the pre-alpine peaks, which are typically very steep but grassy. They are most helpful in deep, semi-unconsolidated snow on gentle to moderate slopes. We recommend thinking about your gloves as a system with three categories: the approach glove, the working glove and the summit/descent glove. These climbs have lost none of their respect since their first ascents over 50 years ago. Think of Hamish MacInnes and Chris Bonington in 1953 climbing Agag's Groove (VI,7), Raven's Gully (V,6) and Crowberry Ridge Direct (VII,6) before front point crampons and leashless technical ice-axes had even been thought of. Absolutely do not venture into snowy hills and mountains without an ice axe. Feb 7, 2018 · What to look for in a walking ice axe. However, I have seen that some of them have a slight curvature and some don't. Firstly, no one glove will work all day, in all weather conditions so you will definitely need more than one pair. Although it is fairly heavy weighing 1. In part three o Oct 2, 2018 · The transition from summer rock climbing into winter is best prepared for in advance. For a winter route to be considered in condition, it must be white and should not be easier to climb without ice axes and crampons. Check out Petzl Ice axes: https://goo. What for: Mainly safety and mixed ice/snow in Scottish Winter, Alps and hopefully bigger challenges in Feb 23, 2017 · You can use it for support, cutting steps, digging holes, making anchors and most crucially it will stop you if you slip. Two Day Scottish Winter Skills Courses – all of the above plus: Emergency Winter Shelters. These 2 days will leave you feeling confident with the use of ice axe and crampons, winter navigation and coping with winter weather. Socks I wear one pair of thick mountaineering socks. Learning to deal with challenging conditions is part of the fun and all part of the Scottish Winter Mountain experience! This is an alternative guided winter version of the 3-Peaks Challenge; Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon. An ice axe is the basic piece of equipment needed for moving on snow and ice. Amazing experience and I learned to use an ice axe and crampons! to be repeated! Highly recommended! Caroline | Edinburgh Feb 3, 2016 · Most of my kit or mountaineering purchases in general are fit to be used in all above conditions. Day 1: Course briefing as above. So what's the ideal shell for Scottish winter climbing and gnarly hill walks? A beefy and protective one! It's been five years since our last winter shells group test, and of course a lot has changed since then. Global climbing connections made at Scottish Winter Meet. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Videos; Latest Videos; Categories; Hashtags; Athletes; Search Revision of fundamental winter skills including moving in crampons and ice axe self-arrest; Movement skills on snow, ice and mixed ground; Efficient ropework techniques for ascent or retreat; Constructing of winter belays; Placing winter protection – nuts, pegs, and ice screws; Avalanche risk assessment and avoidance; Winter mountain navigation This is to say that I will be using an ice axe for both climbing steep slopes and as a hiking pole. The weekend and 5 day courses are run throughout the winter from Christmas to Easter and are based in the Cairngorms near Aviemore in Scotland. Aimed at those who already have basic winter skills (basic crampon & ice axe) and want to climb graded snow and ice routes II to III or to join one of our overseas expedition or courses graded 3 or 4 such as Annapurna IV, Sudarshan, Ismoil Somoni, Denali, Khan Tengri, Broad Peak, Everest. The axe is used for balance, cutting, probing, extra security, support, digging, as a hand hold and as insurance should things go wrong. Jan 17, 2023 · A technical axe is designed for tough winter climbing and ice climbing. Jan 1, 2023 · Ice Axe Your utterly essential winter tool. Emergency procedures. Oct 17, 2023 · The Salewa Alpine-Tec was the sharpest tool in this selection box of ice axes, by a long way. Use of ice axe whilst walking and how to prevent and stop slips and trips. If you know what your doing on snowy hills it's fairly low-risk (ish). Both seem destined to become familiar sights on our winter crags, but which is the one for you? We put them head to head to see how they stack up for UK climbers. Best beginner ice axe: Grivel G-Zero Ice Axe. The conclusion? You're going to want something versatile like the Petzl Quark. That means no bolts, no chains, and certainly no ladders. This is a fabulous walk that tackles the final day of one of the most famous long-distance walks in Scotland: the epic West Highland Way. See full list on outdoorsmagic. We deliver guided Scottish winter climbs as well as teaching days so you can learn the skills for winter climbing and mountaineering. I already have a walking axe with a straight shaft. Straightforward snow slopes up to 50 degrees, or simple scrambles on snowed up rock. There are several types of axes, ranging from those intended as a winter hillwalking aid through to aggressive models designed for climbing. How do you know if the axe you are looking at is designed for walking or climbing? Traditionally, one of the defining features is the length of the shaft. One ice axe is enough. Axes can be used to brake a fall if you slip or help you ascend a vertical wall. Snow-pack analysis skills. The Orgins of the Ice AxeThe predecessor of the ice axe was the alpenstock, a Dec 25, 2024 · The ice axe is an absolutely essential tool for winter walkers, climbers and ski mountaineers. Detailed snow-pack analysis. Taking on the West Highland Way in winter is a spectacular challenge and a great way to beat the crowds (and midges). There are Immerse yourself in the world of Scottish Winter Climbing. But actually, its versatile design makes it one of the best all-round hill walking and mountaineering ice axes on the market, thanks to a surprisingly capable pick and adze, a comfortable and streamlined head shape and a lightweight but sturdy build that ensures it is both easy to carry and nice to use. When I first started winter climbing in the 1970;s you would have been laughed at if you'd turned up at a grade I gully with two axes!! Scottish winter climbing is known around the world for its adventure and traditional ethics. You'll be taught things like how to walk safely in crampons, how to do an ice axe arrest in a variety of situations, and how to read snow conditions to reduce the risk of being avalanched. I'd recommend spending some time trawling through that, maybe the mountaineering scotland youtube will have stuff. Walking in winter requires all the same techniques as summer walking, plus other important skills including crampon technique and handling an ice axe. 60cm is a good all-round length that works for most people in most Scottish mountaineering circumstances up-to grade II. 2kg out of the packaging and approximately 980g after removing the extra bits, the additional features such as integrated helmet holder, easily adjustable compression straps for carrying ropes and skis plus a stripped-down streamline design all add to the pack’s usability across climbing Scottish Winter Climbing on Ben Nevis or Glencoe is always an adventurous day out. Petzl Quark: https://goo. Whether you’re buying for the first time or looking for an upgrade. Feb 10, 2022 · Let’s start by looking at Classic Ice Axes and Crampons, kit suitable for easier grade winter climbing and classic Alpine routes, this kit will carry you up most routes to Scottish grade III and Alpine D. If in doubt I would recommend looking for an ice axe with both a T rated shaft and pick. A good introduction to winter, or as a recap for those that might want a skills check before they go out on their own after a break. ugqx sxmgid zjubrf sxwnfba iopsqn iqxdyw wbhjk iqlvb sfkgj mtjte fkycy fgisd irzss qcr xbrt