Best belay device Jul 16, 2014 · Please read all manufacturer’s directions and information before using any device. Apr 7, 2018 · Best Belay Devices for solo climbing. 0 is Mammut’s assisted belay device. I have tried the double carabiner trick, and in my experience it does not offer adequate additional friction with skinny ropes like this. This article covers belay with a tubular device. It is mainly used for sports climbing. What to look for in a quality belay device Rope slots Jul 8, 2021 · The ATC is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. They either use moving parts (e. It’s a great tube device with teeth and we still wouldn’t recommend one without unless you really have a reason for it. Jan 20, 2014 · When Tommy Caldwell or Mayan Smith-Gobat work a free climb high on El Capitan, the crux may be finding a belayer willing to put in days of duty in an isolated and exposed location. Below are 7 of the best belay devices and what makes them great as well as what you would want to think about when using them if they would be right for you. Not carabiner sensitive, reliable, bomber, tens of thousands in use over decades. (Or is the best the Black Diamond ATC-Guide?) This is why I Belay Device Rope Compatibility Weight Best for; Black Diamond ATC: 7. 0 out of 5 stars Best belay device known to man. Jul 11, 2024 · Best Overall Belay Device Petzl Grigri ($110) Style: Assisted-braking What we like: Assisted braking allows for a more secure belay. Assisted-braking belay devices (also sometimes called self-braking, self-locking, auto-blocking or auto-locking devices) are designed to lock down Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch also connects directly to the belay loop, delivering advantages that vaulted the device to the top of my list. It Nov 22, 2016 · Customers find this belay device to be one of the best around, particularly praising its ease of use while climbing roofs and its built-in safety features. Nov 3, 2020 · You type “best belay device reviews” into Google and get firehosed by decades of information. Lead Belay Technique. Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “geometry assisted” belay device for ropes in the 8. Black Diamond. Another common aperture-style self-braking belay device is Petzl’s Reverso. A belay device is your lifeline, literally. Of course, when lead climbing or top-roping, the belayer must Jul 29, 2019 · Black Diamond ATC Pilot Review Petzl Grigri+ – photo by Alexandra Roberts Wild Country Revo Belay Device Wild Country Revo Belay Device. The figure 8 rappel device is the tool to keep you safe and in control of the speed while you are rappelling. Simultaneously, your brake hand gripping the rope will be pulled in close to the belay device Feb 21, 2020 · The Petzl Verso is a classic tube-style manual belay device with additional friction grooves on one side and is the lightest device in our review. Undoubtedly, you cannot go wrong with getting a GriGri. I wouldn't choose to use one of the other devices unless I had double ropes. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. For more info, check out GearJunkie’s guide to the best belay Apr 29, 2024 · Still, climbing hardware continues to evolve, from refinements on classic gear like belay devices, to more-ergonomic iterations of staples like quickdraws, to more compact and lighter designs. The GRIGRI features a camming mechanism with a 3:1 mechanical advantage, which provides smooth rope control and reduces lowering efforts regardless of rop Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above. But the passive in this belay device simply refers to the fact that it doesn’t have any moving parts. A common thing climbers mention when reviewing this product is that the part that you hold has a plastic coating on it. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. The Sticht Plate was one. when at height i put the prusik on my tether, as a backup to my safeguard, and place a stopper in the rope. Named after its designer Fritz Sticht, the device was a precursor of the tube-style belay devices we still use today. Unlike the other ATC variety which have 2 rope slots, the ATC Sport only has 1 rope slot. ATC stands for “Air Traffic Controller”, which is a tube-like belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. These tubular belay devices are like the all-around champs, fitting into any Grip the rope directly above the belay device with your guide hand. The community we are all a part of will be able to help you advise which products work best, so basing the best belay device you find on reviews in absolutely an element to consider. Dec 16, 2022 · The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Grigri. Give slack by feeding the rope up with your guide hand. That means that there are no moving parts inside the Smart that cam or pinch the rope to slow it down. Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX assisted-braking belay device cleverly uses a rotating wheel inside the cam to relieve a universal problem: unwanted activation when feeding out slack to a lead climber. Feb 21, 2020 · The ClickUp+ is a passive assist belay device that is unique and cool, but perhaps a bit more complicated than it needs to be. The Process. As with most belay carabiners, it is HMS (or pear) shaped, which offers a wide gate opening to easily set up your belay device and rope. Feb 2, 2024 · Reviews honestly are a big ol’ necessity. Jun 20, 2018 · We wanted to see if the GriGri 2 was the best belay device on the market, so we put it up against five other top devices in our belay device shootout. It's suitable for ropes in the 8. Dec 5, 2024 · The Right Device for the Climb. The first catch-and-hold auto belay and the most tested and most used auto belay in the world. Newer models have slimmed it down and improved upon its features. The safest belay devices, when used properly, are auto-locking belay devices. See why TRUBLUE is the world's best auto belay for gym climbing, climbing training, speed climbing, challenge courses, or any form of partnerless climbing. A Figure 8 device is a classic piece of hardware that has stood the test of time, and has a defined role in all climbing sports. 50KN Rescue Figure, 8 Descender Large Bent-Ear Belaying and Rappelling Gear Belay Device Climbing for Rock Climbing Peak Rescue 7075 Aluminum Alloy 4. May 20, 2020 · The Petzl GriGri totally changed the game for belaying on its release back in 1991. Choosing the best one for your needs starts with understanding how they work. May 26, 2022 · All forms of roped climbing require a belay device. It is also the simplest, and the most affordable. Black Diamond ATC Sport . Lowering is easier also the orientation of the belay loop for guide mode is 90° compared to the BD ATC wich orientates the rope either up or down on a anchor. Mago 8 and Scream are your best choices if you are going to be doing this often. You can also get the ATC XP with Mar 17, 2022 · Like all belay devices, the Grigri is used with climbing harnesses and climbing ropes to create a safe and efficient climbing system. If you're looking for an auto-block belay devices that has the advantage of belaying a leader, check out the Petzl Reverso or the Black Diamond ATC Guide Now, when you're in the market for a belay device, you have three main types on the menu: Tubular; Assisted braking; Figure 8; The choice of belaying devices for climbing depends on the type of climbing experience you want to have. Sep 15, 2020 · Secondly, a larger top end means the gate opening is bigger. ATC. 5mm to 11mm Lightweight belay device for trad climbing Ergonomic design for better control in belaying Petzl Grigri 2 specifications and Aug 28, 2021 · Belay device (one that can handle belaying from above) Anchor supplies — cordelette, slings, or just your rope. I love this device, it’s light, small, ergonomically designed and intuitive if you’ve used ATC before. List of 10 Best Belay Devices in 2025 Dec 5, 2024 · This device offers a super smooth belay and a great safety lock up mechanism: By far the most popular belay device in the world is also one of the very best: A versatile assisted-braking device with well-designed safety features: A unique combination of many different belay modes in one device: Simple, durable, and optimal value for multi pitch The Petzl GRIGRI + is one of the best belay devices for beginner sport climbers. May 30, 2023 · Most belay devices, including those specifically designed for thin ropes, are not compatible with these tiny cords. 5 to 11 mm in diameter. So, without further ado, the best devices for rappelling are: The Petzl PIRANA: The PIRANA is the single best rappel device on the market right now. 3mm. Four different climbers have played the role of lead reviewer of belay devices over that time, and it is remarkable how little variance they have Mar 16, 2011 · For long-suffering belay slaves, the assisted-braking belay device has been one of the most welcome gear innovations of the last two decades. The Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate is a large carabiner designed to be used for belaying, as well as rappelling. I also think it’s more intuitive to understand the mechanics involved in belaying with a tube style device (although since you’re already familiar with TR lead belaying Dec 28, 2024 · Why a Good Belay Device Matters. Dec 5, 2024 · The Giga Jul is the most versatile belay device on the market, by far. Not all belay devices are suitable for every type of climb. It uses two spring loaded hinges at the bottom of the device to keep the rope in the feeding position, and when enough tension is applied the rope and carabiner will be pulled upward, making a clicking noise, to lock the rope in place. 5 to 11mm. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. May 31, 2023 · Armed with a good braking hand, harness and rope, the other essential equipment you need is a belay device. Feb 21, 2020 · The Camp Matik is a mechanical assisted locking belay device with an anti-panic feature on the lever. May 21, 2024 · This utilitarian device even works reasonably well as an emergency ascender, especially when clipped directly to the belay loop in a 2:1 setup (when set up with an active assisted-braking belay device, it is sometimes referred to as a “photographer's ascending setup”). The main argument in favor of the GriGri + is its fancy new safety features. 7mm to 11mm: 2. For more detailed information and instruction, we recommend learning from a certified mountain guide. In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. Reviewed in the United States on March 15, 2025. ; Climbing Gym Accessibility: Auto belay devices enhance accessibility, efficiency, and safety in climbing gyms, accommodating climbers of all skill levels. With its sleek design and compact, reassuring feel in hand—and with the device so close to your body—it may just offer the most ergonomic belay option around. The GriGri has been a fan favorite May 31, 2023 · Which belay devices are best? When partaking in a sport like climbing that’s equally exhilarating and dangerous, safety precautions take priority. Verified Purchase. May 10, 2019 · Billed as the most versatile belay device ever, the Giga Jul is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. We found the Sep 14, 2020 · The best belay device for beginners is the one you feel safe and confident using. The grigri is over hyped. It's the piece of equipment that controls the rope, allowing you to climb safely. Dec 18, 2009 · It is best at what it does: belay seconds. However, the best belay device is ultimately the one that meets your needs and budget. Here’s what this guide will cover: Belay Device Types. We appreciate the small, thoughtful design features of the Micro Traxion Feb 22, 2020 · Guide plates are very similar to the tubular belay device with one minor alteration - there are two attachment points (one large, one small). Even Black Diamond’s ATC Alpine Guide , designed for skinny ropes, is only The best belay, rappel and autoblock device to have on your Alpine Bod Harness may be the new Trango B52. Its automatic braking system adds in an extra level of security, though it does take a bit of time getting used to, so may not be the best choice for beginners. The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device. These are the best brake assisted belay devices. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. Feb 22, 2020 · An automatic belay device (AKA auto belay) takes up slack as you climb, thereby negating the need for a belayer on the ground. comhttp://www. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. You can see my full review of the Petzl Grigri+ HERE! You can see my full review of the Black Diamond ATC Pilot HERE! Double Strand Brake Assisting Devices May 19, 2022 · Repeatedly lowering to check a sequence of moves or scrubbing some moss on a new route is often best accomplished using more specialty devices called descenders, which are made to be used hands free by trained professionals, but many find the use of a mechanically brake-assisted belay device useful here. This is an extremely useful feature for guiding or on multi-pitch climbs where the leader has to ‘bring up’ their belayer. Jan 10, 2018 · Brake assisted belay devices are more expensive and heavier than traditional ATC devices, but they are safer when you know how to use them properly! Best brake assisted belay devices. Advantages: Jan 7, 2019 · PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing Visit the PETZL Store 4. Feb 21, 2019 · PETZL GRIGRI+ Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking and Anti-Panic Handle, Suitable for Learners and Intensive Use 4. The results back the legacy — the GriGri 2 remains the most capable, versatile, and reassuring belay device on the market. However, BD’s ATC was so popular that it had the “Kleenex effect. This is one reason for the popularity of the active assisted devices, or passive assisted devices that use much the same motion to belay, but remove much of the effort of holding a hanging climber in place. There is no sense in struggling with There are several belay device types available, each with their own pros and cons. This is the best answer. Where other units draw the user to compromise the belay by holding down a camming rope pinch, the Vergo pinches the rope by rotating the entire device when weighted. May 28, 2024 · Knowing the strengths and weaknesses of each belay device better prepares the climber to stay safely equipped while adventuring. Aug 24, 2018 · The Smart 2. That’s perfect for conventional belay devices; not so great for top rope solo device. It's not particularly well-suited for multi-pitch climbing, especially when belaying from above, and the bulkier and heavier design compared to other belay devices means it's not a great choice when weight matters. It functions similar to tube-style belay devices but offers superior bite when the leader falls or hangs for a while on the rope. Dmm pivot. Feb 21, 2023 · Choosing the best belay device for the job is important for the safety and efficiency of the climb. Compared to ATCs and Figure 8s, safety features such as assisted braking keeps you safe if something were to happen to the belayer (like a rock falling on their head or a mountain goat pounces on them, or most likely, they stop paying attention for the single moment I fall, which propels them into the climbing wall head-first and they This review is based on months of testing with 17 of today's most popular belay devices, but it rests on a 12-year foundation that goes back to when we first started examining the product category. In my opinion best of geometric assisted devices on the market right now. 100% All i need for hunting is my safeguard which i use for ascent and rappel, a bit of accessory cord which i use for backing up my safeguard and a pair of carabiners. While the ATC easily accommodates two rope strands for belays, the GriGri requires a bit more finesse to handle such an environment. For this list of the 10 best belay devices, we chose products that have the highest ratings and the highest number of reviews that our team was able to read and synthesize. Trango Vergo Belay Device is an assisted-braking belay device designed to bring new levels of safety and ergonomics to rock climbing belaying. A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Jul 23, 2004 · Any simple belay device that is relatively foolproof to set up (an ATC will work whichever way the ropes go through) would be good. Editor’s Choice: Metolius Roll Up Stick Clip Kit ($225) The best part of technical canyoneering or canyoning is the rappels- without them, it wouldn’t be technical canyoneering. The Petzl GriGri+ adds security for beginner climbers with an “ anti-panic ” lever that stops the lowering mechanism if the lever is pulled too The Black Diamond ATC Guide provides the best value for multi-pitch climbing. 6 - 10. Buy a belay device to fit the type of climbing you do. ” Passive Assisted Braking Belay Devices. The Petzl GriGri 2 is the most recommended brake assisted belay device on the market, and for Aug 6, 2021 · Periodically, belay devices come along that change climbing the way the iPhone changed cell phones. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. Mechanical devices can use most carabiners, though a belay device with a horn is most intentionally designed. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. When the climber reaches the top, or if they fall, the device automatically catches the climber and slowly lowers them to the ground. What we don’t: Heavy, expensive, and requires a bit of a learning curve; cannot be used for double-rope rappelling. Symmetry allows flipping that extends the life of the device. Armed with a good braking hand, harness and … The Grigri is the best IMO. Dec 22, 2022 · However, which device is best for you is much less clear. It has the best 10 belay devices and a brief list of the factors to consider before choosing. Below, you’ll find the best climbing hardware available in 2024. Sep 19, 2022 · Imagine a conventional belay device, like an ATC. There are two main types of belay devices: tube-style devices and braking-assisted devices. undo the stopper and undo my prusik and im ready to rappel. Browse Black Diamond's top-rated climbing gear and more. There is no single ‘best belay device,’ and I think it is best to have a few different ones on hand for when you may need them. In fact my wife and I each have one. Some prefer high friction ones, some prefer ones where it's easier to feed rope when you need it, there's always a trade off. Lightweight, rugged and auto locking, this thing is build to for anything. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. com : PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device with Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, & Top-Rope Climbing - Grey : Sports & Outdoors Aug 7, 2019 · YAPJEB Figure 8 Descender, 35KN 50kN Rescue Figure Belay Device Belaying and Rappelling Gear Descender Rigging for Climbing Rescue, Heavy Duty Belay Device, Downhill Equipment 4. The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device designed for climbing inside or outdoors. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the belay device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Jun 22, 2023 · The best way to maintain your belay device is a thorough wash with warm water, soap, a quick brush and WD-40, if required. Here are our in-depth reviews. In the 1970s, the first patented belay device was the Basically the best belay device is the one you feel is like an extension of your own body, you should be comfortable using it without having to think about it. , Petzl Grigri 2) or the geometry of the device (e. Third, having a wide top end means there is space to set up either a couple of clove hitches which are useful for locking off a belay or tying in at the top of routes on multi-pitch. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. By design, a belay device doesn’t catch instantaneously. For all your latest climbing gear head to: http://shop. All of these are great options but the thing with these is they all hinge on convenience of use and preference. Grigri with microtrax, grigri alone, grigri with jumar, jumar with microtrax etc etc. It also takes rope diameters down to 7. 2-5 locking carabiners each (for belay devices, anchors, clove hitches, prusiks, etc. It combines a standard tube-style design with the ability to belay following climbers directly off the anchor on multi-pitch climbs, conveniently “auto-blocking” to catch their falls. The most famous of these is the Grigri by Petzl. The Petzl GRIGRI is a belay device with an assisted braking system that’s designed to be used with single ropes from 8. All of the information in this review comes from personal experience and in-depth research that I’ve done to try and find the best single device for you to use while rappelling. Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. Locking carabiners are essential to climbing, whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out. Feb 12, 2024 · In terms of the best belay device, the Petzl Grigri 2 is a no brainer. The Winners. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Jun 19, 2023 · Switch for lead/belay; Anti-panic system in the handle (good for new belayers) Final Thoughts. Weighing less than 10oz and holding up to 4KN (4000 kg), the Epic Peak Rescue Figure 8 Descender is your one stop shop multi-functional descender. 5 mm range. Assisted braking belay devices automatically lock down on the rope to help the belayer catch a climber’s fall. 5 days ago · The Best Belay Device. Often, the solution is to go alone, rehearsing the key pitches by solo toproping. ) Sufficient food and water; Appropriate layers (prepare for any likely or possible weather) The best belay device for top rope climbing is an assisted-braking device like a Petzl Grigri. I would advocate for learning on the Jul2 - if you can lead belay using a Jul2, you should be able to lead belay using any tubular style device, should the need ever arise. However, being so different from a regular belay device means that the best carabiner for the GriGri is a bit different than standard. Jul 25, 2023 · An Overview of the Petzl Grigri. There are two types of assisted braking belay devices. The best high-quality devices, like the Petzl GriGri 2 Belay Device, apply friction to . Part of the new wave of rappel devices that allow changes in friction while rapping. What We Like Added Safety Features: Anti-Panic Lowering & Top-Rope Belay Mode. The Petzl GriGri is widely considered one of the best belay devices out there as they are very beginner-friendly and have phenomenal safety measures thanks to their cam-assisted braking system. Find the best climbing product for your next outdoor adventure using our independent reviews and ratings. For the price, this device is a great value. Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. Little Fluffy Rabbits 04 Feb 2002. No matter what you use, use it as directed by the manufacturer, be safe, and have fun. If you actually want safety, get a backup belayer, and learn and practice belaying perfectly. A certain amount of rope slips through the device to dissipate energy through friction before it locks off. A good belay device should be reliable, easy to use, and compatible with your climbing style. 5mm to 11mm: 9. Before we jump into the list, let's talk about why having a good belay device is crucial. Tube-style devices, such as the ATC, use friction to control the rope and are a popular choice for beginner and intermediate climbers. To lower a climber, instead of nervously moving the rope up to the belay device (common for basic ATCs), you move the belay device like you would a lever to control the speed of the rope running through the belay device. IMO, the Revo has not been out long enough for anyone to determine whether or not it is safer than a GriGri. Belay techniques vary for many reasons. The leader reaches the belay stance and builds an anchor with a master point. Make sure to read the post from top to bottom so that you can understand everything about these devices. If you choose a different type of device than the one you were originally taught to use, then you must learn and practice techniques with that new device. Assisted Braking Belay Devices; Tube-Style Belay Devices; Semi-automatic tube-style devices; The Best Belay Device for Beginners Oct 1, 2021 · Assisted braking helps belayer protect climber when they fall and also makes descent easier. Trailspace's community of gear reviewers has field-tested and rated the top belay/rappel devices. The greatest advantage to these advanced tubular devices is that they can be used on multi-pitch climbs to bring up your second on a “direct belay,” where you attach the device itself to your anchor instead of yourself, and therefore can be almost The lifeguard can be used with classic belay techniques, with single ropes, ranging from 8 9 millimeters to 11 millimeters for lead and top rope climbing in the description to get this product today, at the best price, the lifeguard belay device with assisted braking is compact, light and durable. The internal camming mechanism helps to catch the rope if the belayer 3 days ago · The Best Locking Carabiner. Since the inception of the original Grigri 1, the Grigri has continued to set the standard for belay devices with cam-assisted blocking (braking). 0 is a “passive” assisted belay device. A locked biner prevents accidental gate openings so you can climb more safely, and every belay device should be attached to one. no switching tethers, or unhooking at all. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Jan 4, 2024 · The tube belay device has continued to evolve over the years to include models designed to be used belaying from above the climber. That means easier loading of a rope/belay device and easier to set up of a quick munter hitch. Feb 29, 2024 · Your belay device will influence which shapes will work best. Jul 11, 2024 · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. 8 4. Best for: Sport climbing, gym climbing, multipitch trad climbing. Nov 11, 2023 · Petzl GriGri 2, Edelrid Mega Jul Sport, and DMM Pivot are probably your best bets out of the 22 options considered. To set up the auto-blocking device, she just needs two locking biners and the belay device; at least one of the biners needs to have a smooth and rounded shape with no edges. Slide your brake hand out away from the belay device and grip the rope. comWhen you're just starting out climbing, choosing your first belay devic Jun 13, 2018 · If you’d like to read more about how the GriGri + compared to the other belay devices we tested, check out our guide to the best belay devices. Mar 19, 2024 · Being capable of using two ropes, this device is also best for rappelling, and it can be secured on the wall so you can easily belay the second from a belay station in a multi-pitch route. i have mentioned some of them at here. The Black Diamond ATC Sport is another type of tubular aperture belay device. 8 out of 5 stars 2,568 ratings Jan 7, 2019 · PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing Visit the PETZL Store 4. 7 out of 5 stars 2,346 Mar 13, 2024 · Amazon. TRUBLUE Auto Belay Innovation: Head Rush Technologies’ TRUBLUE Auto Belays offers industry-leading innovation and safety designed specifically for climbers. With this being the case, you need to make sure that you get a belay device that will keep you as safe as possible. I use Jul2 indoors and outdoors on sport single pitch climbs. Jul 29, 2024 · In a lead-belay scenario, he imagines the Neox will also be a better option for left-handed climbers, who can adopt traditional ATC rope-feeding tactics. There are many more belay device you can find out in market ,what makes me more satisfied and user’s recommended. To assist our readers to make the best decision without using too much time we prepared this guide. Belay devices come in various designs, including tube-style devices, assisted-braking devices, and figure-eight devices. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three Sep 21, 2023 · On our list, we recommend the Petzl GriGri as the best overall belay device. My final note would be, if you’re a pre-2009 Grigri user, to not go back and forth between the two devices, to avoid the belay confusion described above. If it’s more for occasional scrambling, then I would go with a super munter. Nov 21, 2017 · Searching for the best belay devices? See the top-rated of 2024, pros, cons, features, plus all you need to know about the best options available. Jan 3, 2024 · But what is the best belay device to use? There’s a whole lot of different belay devices out there, but today, let’s take a look at two of the most popular belay devices out there: the Petzl Gri-Gri and the ATC – their respective advantages, disadvantages and best applications. Feb 27, 2021 · Dan Bruck wrote: I've tried a bunch of different things. Auto-locking belay devices have a camming mechanism to stop the rope from running through the device if significant tension is applied to the rope. Single rope with both devices one single rope - one on belay loop the other on a sling around both shoulders, double rope with a device on each. Petzl GriGri . New Topic Reply to Topic This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings. "Active assisted braking" is the primary reason people pick Petzl GriGri 2 over the competition. Pretty much the best ATC style belay device there is. Dec 5, 2024 · The Trango Vergo is a fantastic device for belaying the leader, providing an ergonomic and intuitive way to pay out slack without compromising the brake assist. Keep reading to learn about the Grigri vs. If you really don’t want to shell out on a Guide, then you can get an ATC XP. 7 to 10. From the gym to the single-pitch crag to the high alpine, the variety of climbing styles is matched only by the variety of belay devices and techniques. 5 out of 5 stars 18 Best Belay Devices for Climbing Along with a harness and rope, one of the most essential pieces of rock climbing equipment is the belay device. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri+ is the best active assisted-braking belay device for newer climbers and feels very familiar to anybody who has used a GriGri before. At a Glance. The BD ATC Guide is not the only device of this kind on the market, with the Petzl Reverso and DMM Pivot having approximately the same characteristics. It’s kind of a funny term simply because there’s nothing passive about climbing. In short, a belay device attaches the climber’s rope to the belayer, allowing the belayer to keep the rope taut, catch the climber when he Jan 22, 2025 · The Pinch is an ideal device for single-pitch cragging on skinny lines and for beginner topropers who’ll appreciate the anti-panic function. Or keep reading for our full GriGri + review. The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay Dec 13, 2023 · The Best Device for Rappelling The GriGris biggest hangup for Axel Kochendörfer, a Germany-based mountain rescuer, is its inability to offer a two-strand rappel. , Wild Country SRC) to apply braking force to a rope Feb 22, 2020 · Tube style devices require a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the climber, which can be fatiguing. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. Owners have gone as far as to say it's the perfect belay device for top rope and lead belay. When the second reaches the belay, tie off the rope’s brake side with an overhand on a bight (clip this off to an anchor point or back it up with a carabiner if you wish). In terms of versatility, the GriGri shows some limitations. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Shop for Belay and Rappel Devices at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. This belay device has a pinching mechanism between the carabiner and the device to help it stop the rope. Active devices have moving parts whereas passive devices don’t. To sum up, here are the best belay devices for climbing we looked at today: Dec 5, 2024 · The Neox might be the best belay device for lead climbing and single-pitch climbing, but the similar Petzl GriGri is more versatile and remains our favorite overall belay device for its versatility. However, if you want the versatility of belaying one or two followers, stick with a tube device with guide mode. It’s important to mention that these kind of devices work best with dedicated belaying carabiner. CRITR3 !!! An innovative rappel device from Todd and Desi at Climbing Sutra, now an Imlay Canyon Gear product. The important thing to remember is that when you’re trying to be pretty good at most things, it’s hard to be really great at any one specific task. Others include the Beal Birdie, Some people, especially lightweight climbers, find tubular belay devices to be slow for rappelling; Assisted-Braking Belay Devices. It offers several features that many will see as improvements over the standard GriGri, including an anti-panic handle and two different modes for top-rope and lead belaying. While many novice canyoneers start out with simple belay or rappel devices like an ATC or an 8-ring, these elementary options won’t meet the needs of more advanced canyoneers. Why Assisted Braking is Necessary on your Belay Device. This page is powered by a knowledgeable community that helps you make an informed decision. Soon you’re inundated with terms like Air Traffic Control and Passive Assisted Braking. If we do our job correctly, by the end of this article, you’ll know which belay device is best for you. Oh boy. Instead, the rotation of the device against your carabiner is what creates the pinch. 6 oz: Great assisted braking 2 days ago · The figure 8 belay device, also known as the figure 8 descender and figure 8 rappel device, is a metal piece shaped as 8 with one small end and one small end. Unlike traditional tube-style devices, these gizmos actually help the belayer hold a falling or hanging climber. They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. 5 to 11 mm), designed for the experienced belayer Belay deviceRead More Jan 2, 2019 · 5. Nov 28, 2018 · Our most versatile belay and rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Feb 4, 2002 · Best belay device. Feb 21, 2020 · The Mammut Smart 2. Just as there are differences between ice climbing and indoor sport climbing, there are differences in the belay devices best used for them, we list some pros/cons below to help break them down. Apr 14, 2023 · If you're getting into sport climbing or if you're a regular by now, we highly recommend getting an ASSISTED belay device. A List of the 10 Best Belay Devices . Passive devices pinch the rope between a carabiner and the belay device to stop it from sliding through. Whether you are belaying a leader in assisted-brake mode, rappelling down long routes with two ropes, or belaying a follower from above, this device performs every task that a belay device is ever asked to do. 6 out of 5 stars 739 13 offers from $9000 $ 90 00 Nov 13, 2007 · The Best Belay/Rappel Devices. Jan 6, 2025 · Petzl Grigri 2 belay device review Best belay device for advanced climbers Assisted braking belay device for sport climbing Durable climbing gear for experienced belayers Optimized for climbing ropes 8. Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC by Black Diamond is a contemporary iteration of older tube-style belay devices. 8 out of 5 stars 2,568 ratings Best All Around Canyoneering Device: The SQWUREL 2; Runner Up: The Canyonwerks CRITR 2; Best Budget Device / Most Bang For Your Buck: The Petzl PIRANA; Best Device for Rappelling and Belaying: The Sterling ATS Rappel/Belay device; Best for First Time / Infrequent Users: Black Diamond ATC or Figure 8 Oct 1, 2020 · BEST FOR: THE BASICS. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. Like most active assist braking devices, it has its own unique method of usage, which requires learning and some practice before it is safe to belay with. Nov 29, 2018 · This is the best “all around “, “do it all” belay device that we’ve ever owned. Best belay device May 9, 2024 · Versatility. Over the past decade, we’ve tested about a dozen different belay devices, and spent countless hours mastering each one. Sporting an ergonomic handle with an anti panic function for exceptional descent control, and two usage modes to choose from via selector knob, this belay device is versatile. 2 mm range. After six months of use we give the verdict here, especially with a view to how it suits UK trad climbing. Tubular Belay Devices for Climbing. Summary of the Best Belay Devices for Climbing. Of the newer assisted locking devices the Alpine Up seems to be the crowd favorite on Mountain Project these days, but it's the same size/weight as a Grigri. epictv. g. They appreciate its functionality, with one customer noting it works well for lead rope, and they like its grip, with one mentioning it does a fine job at gripping the rope. The advantage of a STitch Plate with a spring is that is it easier to release after tension, but works well during normal rope passage as the spring reduces the chance for rope jamming. Jan 11, 2018 · Your best safety is your mind - no device can be made idiot-proof or failure proof. Best Belay Device . Though basic top-rope belay is similar on many devices, a few details differ. Other Belay Devices Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. The lack of a keeper loop means you must stay aware of it or risk losing it. If you’re using a tube style belay device, an HMS carabiner is usually the better option, preferably one with round stock or a steel in the basket for smoother feeding. Whether you’re an active first ascensionist or just want to do some laps after work without a partner, solo toproping is a handy May 11, 2021 · PETZL Grigri Assisted Braking Black Diamond ATC-Xp EDELRID Mega Jul GM CLIMBING Micro Ito Rocky Climbing Gear Ascender TOP #1 PETZL Grigri Assisted Braking belay devices Belay device with assisted braking, for a broad range of single rope diameters (8. Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC Guide was also our top pick for manual belay devices in our Best Belay Device For Beginners article. Pick your poison, but know it well. Lots of options allow careful adjustment of friction while on rappel. 3 oz: Beginners' belay device: Petzl GriGri Plus: 8. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. Lowering/Rappelling The PETZL GriGri is an extremely safe and secure belay device fit for a wide variety of rope diameters, from 8. May 20, 2022 · This trick works best if you belay your second off the master point with a self-locking belay device (Reverso, ATC Guide, etc. All Climbing Gear. ). Petzl GriGri 2. xeww ezhsf enxzr ugzq bhkjb glw kkmd prk tgviwve rpupk xkas qkdur fekkb ivvv gzdfg